Shop anchor for come-along or winch

[Martin W]

It will only cost you dollars if you put it on your drawings. A 7/8” anchor has a pullout rating of 6000 pound and a shear strength of 13,000 pound. Think about putting 5”of 3000 MPs concrete with fibre mesh. This will support most anything you can put on it And also have greater strength for mechanical anchors.

Cheers
Martin


Technical Information: Ultimate Load Values in 2000 PSI Concrete

Size	Minimum Embedment	Drill Bit	Pull-Out (lbs.)	Shear (lbs.)
1/4”	1-1/8”	1/4”	877	1082
5/16”	1-1/8”	5/16”	892	1156
3/8”	1-1/2”	3/8”	1223	3238
1/2”	2-1/4”	1/2”	2999	5564
5/8”	2-3/4”	5/8”	3749	6198
3/4”	3-1/4”	3/4”	4978	9378
7/8”	3-7/8”	7/8”	6294	13687
1”	4-1/2”	1”	7329	17712
1-1/4”	5-1/2”	1-1/4”	13162	24206

Values shown are average ultimate values and are offered only as a guide and are not guaranteed. A safety factor of 4:1 or 25% is generally accepted as a safe working load. Reference should be made to applicable codes for the specific working ratio.

 

[Bob Korves]

DO NOT ASK! It's not the sort of thing that commonly comes up, which makes the building department uncomfortable. It will really throw a wrench in your permit application, requiring an engineered solution. Make provision for it in a manner that isn't obvious and add it after the final inspection.

The loads you are talking about are not that large. When I moved my mill into the garage, I screwed an eye into the redwood sill of the building. Using a come-along, chain and pipe rollers I pulled it up a 6in. rise on a very short ramp. It was slow but uneventful. An auto-body anchor post will definitely work, but there will be a significant amount of concrete involved if you submit it in the plans. I would consider a piece of I-beam long enough to span two columns with clamps to attach to them. Then it can be relocated as necessary. If there is already a column close to centered on the doorway, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. The loads are just not that great.

No columns inside, wood stud walls, small shop 372 square feet inside, concrete slab. There will be a higher stand of concrete at that "back" side of the shop due to the terrain going moderately uphill. The shop access is also modestly going to rise uphill approaching the shop double door entrance, a few inches over 10 feet.

 

[whitmore]

I am preparing for building a shop ... I have seen anchors added to the wall opposite an entry door, that serve as a mount for winches, come-alongs and other pulling units

As an afterthought, it's not uncommon to use a core drill to poke a hole in a concrete floor; if you were to make a 2" hole,
and epoxy in a steel pipe for liner, you could just drop a post into the 'socket' and pull against that. To winch my (non
functioning) car up the driveway slope, it just took a crowbar hammered through a crack in the garage floor (from
earthquake damage decades ago).

Pipe-lined drilled hole would be better than the wait-for-earthquake option.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Cut a piece of 1" pipe equal to the thickness of the stem wall at the back. Drop it in the form when the concrete level is above grade, then finish the pour. Invisible until the forms are removed. If anyone asks, it's a pass thru for something or other. Later you can bolt a forged eye thru the hole with a steel backing plate on the outside.

 

[pineyfolks]

I have 6 10x12x3/4" thick plates with rebar welded to the bottoms cemented in my floor to attach anything from a come along to move stuff into the shop to my iron bender or anything else I need. You can see one in front of my work bench. It's a good idea if you're building a new shop.

 

[Illinoyance]

I have a Harbor Freight 110 volt winch I use to drag stuff around the shop. I just drill in anchor bolts to attach the winch wherever needed. I drill all the way throughthe floor so I can drive them flussh with the floor when no longer needed. My shop floor is pretty crappy as far as finish, level, and dusting are concerned so I don't mind drilling holes in it.

 

[Jackle1312]

Since the concrete isn't poured your options are open. The easiest solution is to weld some rebar to a steel plate or a ring and tie it in to the floor. Personally I find that if you try to place an anchor it always winds up being in the wrong place. You may be better off just to epoxy female anchors in the floor as needed and just bolt a plate to it when you need it. The female anchors are nice because you can just put a set screw in them to keep the threads clean and there is nothing to trip on. Also if you add anchors to your plans the building department is most likely going to make you get an engineer involved which will just drive up the cost.