Shop anchor for come-along or winch

I would put them in the floor. Easy to make from some steel pipe and plate, and a chunk of 1/2" chain. Wish I had put some in when I poured my floor, but got in a hurry and didn't do it. I think I'm going to core bore some holes in my floor and epoxy them in. Here is a pic I found, but I would make it out of heavier stock. Mike
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If you're pouring concrete also put some conduit in so you can pull power from the panel into the middle of the floor where you might want a machine in the future.

John
 
From my perspective, setting a pull point in a basement floor would be suitable if the load didn't exceed a ton or so. But I would be skeptical of dragging something from a hollow block wall unless it waseinforced. Pulling against your house doesn't sit right with me.

.
 
If it is a poured concrete wall I would run a threaded bar of sufficient size though the wall as it's poured. Before the foundation is backfilled, IO would add a steel plate to spread the load. If the rod is close to the floor, there will be little danger of damaging the wall. A 1" grade 2 bolt has a proof load of 20,000 lbs. and with a plate behind and the rod close to the floor, the load on the concrete will largely be compressive.

If the wall is block, I would mount the anchor in the floor. I would use heavy steel plate with four anchor bolts at the corners and the sentral main bolt set into the concrete. Of possible to do this prior to the floor pour, set a bottom plate and the bolts in place with the threaded ends extending several inches above the floor level.

Now dealing with building codes and inspectors is another matter.
 
Logan 400 said:
Auto body Tool mart
Mo-Clamp Mo-Hole T-Top Anchor Pot for New Floors, Cast-In - 3060
Capacity 10 tons
Click to expand...
Yes, they call those anchor pots in the automotive collision repair business, where they are mostly used for straightening frames, and one might work for me if it is strong enough. What I am hoping to find is something that is designed for being placed in the concrete of the wall base riser that will be there, with just a ring sticking out into the shop.
 
This is not as tough a problem as it might seem. Recall from high school physics the force to slide an object is the weight normal to the surface times the coefficient of friction. For machine skates, pipes, and rollers the coefficient is quite low, in the few percent region. Even steel on smooth concrete is not so bad so the best step is to make sure your pour is finished as smooth as possible.

For equipment up to a few thousand pounds, on smooth concrete or some kind of skid, the force ought to be in the few hundred pounds, not much trouble for about any reasonable anchor.
 
Bob Korves said:
Yes, they call those anchor pots in the automotive collision repair business, where they are mostly used for straightening frames, and one might work for me if it is strong enough. What I am hoping to find is something that is designed for being placed in the concrete of the wall base riser that will be there, with just a ring sticking out into the shop.
Click to expand...
the body pulling anchors would be more than sufficient,
body shops use exponentially more force to straighten frames than you would ever use to move the equipment we use
 
DO NOT ASK! It's not the sort of thing that commonly comes up, which makes the building department uncomfortable. It will really throw a wrench in your permit application, requiring an engineered solution. Make provision for it in a manner that isn't obvious and add it after the final inspection.

The loads you are talking about are not that large. When I moved my mill into the garage, I screwed an eye into the redwood sill of the building. Using a come-along, chain and pipe rollers I pulled it up a 6in. rise on a very short ramp. It was slow but uneventful. An auto-body anchor post will definitely work, but there will be a significant amount of concrete involved if you submit it in the plans. I would consider a piece of I-beam long enough to span two columns with clamps to attach to them. Then it can be relocated as necessary. If there is already a column close to centered on the doorway, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. The loads are just not that great.
 
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