Sherline lathe - holding limits of three jaw chuck

[chatter chatter cut cut]

most of the minilathe utube videos about the tool holder seem to be that the quick change tool holder with the adjustable tool height insert are the way to go . my first purchase was a cheap chinese tool post and tool holders. the tool holders allow the tool height to be adjusted with precision . and the the tool holders can all be adjusted so that the tool being held is on center . ever tool can be inserted and be on center.

 

[Raymie5]

Hi Everyone! I am looking at this post with great interest as I have just purchased my first Sherline lathe, a Model 4000. I have set it up with a 3/4 hp Jack motor, but unfortunately I currently can't use it as I am awaiting a Sherline 3 jaw chuck, tool post, centres, and a drill chuck. I am looking forward to being pointed in the right direction when my parts show up, see pics of my very basic set up that is to be refined as I go.

 

[kered]

Nice to hear you're exploring your Dad's Sherline lathe. Using a live center for tail support is key when working with longer pieces like yours. It helps stabilize and reduces chatter during cuts.

 

[Choiliefan]

Hi Everyone! I am looking at this post with great interest as I have just purchased my first Sherline lathe, a Model 4000. I have set it up with a 3/4 hp Jack motor, but unfortunately I currently can't use it as I am awaiting a Sherline 3 jaw chuck, tool post, centres, and a drill chuck. I am looking forward to being pointed in the right direction when my parts show up, see pics of my very basic set up that is to be refined as I go.

Welcome to the group.
I've been wondering about those vari-speed sewing machine motors for quite awhile.
I'll be interested in hearing how it works with your Sherline.

 

[savarin]

Aluminium can be very grabby I find very sharp tooling and WD40 helps.
I know nothing regarding the sherline lathes but if you can insert a fixed centre in the head stock shaft (or tail stock) you can use the point to scribe a line on something to give you an accurate height gauge. I use a 1.5" dia tube standing on the cross slide with the height line scored on as my height gauge.
Regarding tool angles again I find that as long as each face of the tool bit slopes away from the work then exact angles as always stated in the literature are not necessary.
I always use a fine diamond hone to produce a very small radius to the tip.
BUT always have the cutting point of contact on the centre line of the work.
For stainless I use sharp brazed carbide tooling.
With regards to the work being pulled from the chuck when facing or turning I would suggest its too deep a cut with turning it could be too much stickout.

 

[Smithdoor]

I have recently started trying to use the Sherline lathe that I inherited from my Dad. I'm completely new to this and starting with the most basic cuts.

I chucked some 6061 aluminum stock that I got from Amazon. Roughly 2.5 inches long and an inch in diameter. I was trying to do a basic right to left cut.

The "first cut" section of the manual talks about taking fairly aggressive cuts from the stock (up to 50 thousands). What I found was that I could make a 5 thou cut fairly easily and a 10 thou with some concern, but at 15 thou, it was less than .100 down the material when the material would grab the cutter and climb it, wrenching it out of alignment.

Today I picked up an optical tach to verify that my speeds were about right.

I also center drilled the tail and set up a live center to support the tail. Then I could make much better cuts (did .035 before I quit for the night).

So, my question is: is this normal? The sample cut videos on the Sherline site don't show a tail support, but the piece is both shorter and thinner.

If it is normal, how do people support the tail when facing it off?

I would use steady rest

The Sherline lathe is a small lathe so you limit . But some techniques used in large will work on Sherline lathes.

Dave