Sharpening lathe tools.

[ScrapMetal]

If you aren't comfortable holding the angles manually for bits, make/buy a jig. There's a nice SB reproduction jig from Alisam: http://alisam.com/page/1gu8x/Metalworking.html



Or you can make your own system (from Taig): http://toolingaround.ca/ltsj.html




then there's something else from Gadget builder: http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/LatheBitSharpening.html

A lot of different options out there.

-Ron

 

[george wilson]

You need to explain to the OP how these jigs are used.

 

[Tom Griffin]

Practice, practice, practice...

Get some 3/8" square mild steel, cut some 3" lengths and use that to practice on. It grinds a whole lot easier than high speed steel and doesn't cost very much. You can tell where the tool is touching the wheel by watching the sparks. If you use a light touch and watch the sparks you'll be able to sit the tool back on the wheel right where it was, but as I said, it takes lots of practice to develop the feel.

Tom

 

[ScrapMetal]

You need to explain to the OP how these jigs are used.

I'm not real good at long explanations. It's why I included the links with each example. With the exception of the Alisam repo I think everything is explained it great detail.

You still have a good point though,

Thanks George,

-Ron

 

[george wilson]

You know,I didn't even notice the links!!

 

[12bolts]

Practice, practice, practice...

... You can tell where the tool is touching the wheel by watching the sparks. If you use a light touch and watch the sparks you'll be able to sit the tool back on the wheel right where it was, ...

Like Tom says, but also

Depending on what it is that I am sharpening. But I usually return the tool to the wheel with the trailing edge just touching first and then "roll" the tool until the leading edge makes contact. This is when you see the sparks form on the top cutting edge of the tool instead of only flying off below. This ensures that you dont grind a bevel on the cutting edge.

Make sure you have a comfortable stance and grip, not too tight. Never wear gloves. I avoid using tool holders as you cant feel the temperature of the steel. If its getting warm, its time to quench. Keep your quench close by. Dont change the position of the tool in your hand when you quench, just quickly plunge and that way when you return your hand to the grinder the tool should pretty much be in the same position to resume grinding. Use the guard and tool rest to place your hand on to stabilize movement. In fact I think "tool rest" is probably a misnomer. I never rest a tool on it, only my hand.
Dont use the side of the wheel, only the perimeter. If its got gouges and the corners are rounded and you need a flat surface then it needs dressing. Use the radius of the wheel to create a natural hollow grind for tool clearance.
I have a couple of bench grinders, but 1 is only for tools and drills. NOTHING else gets ground on it!

Cheers Phil

 

[FarFar]

Hello Nitsuj

Lets us have some pictures of lathe and a tool.
As young man I thought nothing of grinding tool bits .but to day I have made a couple of tangential toolholders and here sharpening lathe tools is really a nonevent.Search here and there for tangential or diamond tool holders and/or make one Yourself.
I have better make a small series of photos showing how easy resharpening becomes,but I havw promised family to go for a walk.

 

[atwatterkent]

Check the albums section "Atwatterkents albums". There is a copy of the original South Bend tool grinding jig instruction sheet that came with the jig that Alisam copied along with a print to make your own.

 

[llarson]

I'd agree with Tom, tool grinding ain't rocket science as far as general turning and boring is concerned. Clearance is what counts. Most of the tool rests i've seen [mine included] aren't big enough to properly support a grinding jig. Knowing what basic profile is needed, and lots of practice will get you there.

 

[ScrapMetal]

True, when I first started to grind my tools I was very concerned with all the angles that were listed on the tutorials. Very intimidating (especially when one is a little OCD on such things). I've come to find that while they are still important they aren't anywhere near as critical as they make it sound. Proper clearance and a positive rake angle (+- a degree or two) and you're set to go. There are so many other variables that come in to play with your cut and finish you could drive yourself nuts trying to take it all in to consideration for each different cut you make.

JMHO (and it's not worth much)

-Ron