Setup: Holding Chainsaw Cylinder on Lathe?

The plug goes into the cylinder at an angle, so I can't use the plug hole. It can't have any screws through the base because the cutting tool has to cut the base. The web says the bore is chromed on this model.

I believe some people are using friction to hold these, pushing a straight mandrel in so it touches the top of the inside of the cylinder and then putting something like a nut on top of the cylinder to hold a live center.

Locating the nut would be a pain. Maybe a flat attachment on the center would make it unnecessary.

www.sawsalvage.co

GENUINE ECHO CYLINDER FITS CS-501P CS-4910 A130002280

GENUINE ECHO PARTS Part A130002280 (CYLINDER) Where Used: · 492 S/N: C83615001001 - C83615999999-->ENGINE · CS-4910 S/N: C83515001001 - C83515999999-->Engine · CS-501P S/N: C36712001001 - C36712999999-->Engine · CS-501P S/N: C36813001001 - C36813999999-->Engine · CS-501P S/N: C68515001001 -...
www.sawsalvage.co www.sawsalvage.co
 
Chips O'Toole said:
How does it grip the cylinder?
Click to expand...
Its an expanding mandrel
The back nut tightens expanding the body
if you lookup the tool you will see how it works
I deburred the surface of the tool but if worried about scratching the cylinder
you could protect it with plastic shims
 
Chips O'Toole said:
The plug goes into the cylinder at an angle, so I can't use the plug hole. It can't have any screws through the base because the cutting tool has to cut the base. The web says the bore is chromed on this model.

I believe some people are using friction to hold these, pushing a straight mandrel in so it touches the top of the inside of the cylinder and then putting something like a nut on top of the cylinder to hold a live center.

Locating the nut would be a pain. Maybe a flat attachment on the center would make it unnecessary.

www.sawsalvage.co

GENUINE ECHO CYLINDER FITS CS-501P CS-4910 A130002280

GENUINE ECHO PARTS Part A130002280 (CYLINDER) Where Used: · 492 S/N: C83615001001 - C83615999999-->ENGINE · CS-4910 S/N: C83515001001 - C83515999999-->Engine · CS-501P S/N: C36712001001 - C36712999999-->Engine · CS-501P S/N: C36813001001 - C36813999999-->Engine · CS-501P S/N: C68515001001 -...
www.sawsalvage.co www.sawsalvage.co
Click to expand...
I made a flat plate with a bushing in it and drilled and tapped 4 set screws in it
Turned a stub end on an mt3 taper and mounted it in the tail stock
made it snug not too tight against the cylinder
only fine cuts were taken so not too much load
worked okay for me
 
Even if the plug hole is angled you can still put a screw thru at that angle and it will still hold fine.
 
Chips O'Toole said:
I got myself an Echo 501-P, which is a nice 50-cc chainsaw. I stuck a 16" full chisel bar on it, and I am planning to fiddle with it to increase the performance. I don't need to do this, but I thought it would be fun.

Sooner or later, I may want to put this cylinder, or one from another saw, on the lathe. I have seen people using shopmade aluminum mandrels for this. They shove them inside the cylinder.

I don't quite understand where they get the friction to turn the cylinders. If the mandrel slips inside the cylinder, I would expect the cylinder to remain stationary when the lathe is running because the parts would slip against each other. How are people getting cylinders to move with their mandrels?
Click to expand...
If you want to hold on the cylinder bore it is easy using an ID collet. I have been doing it for over 60 years. Hardinge makes Id collets but too pricey for me. I have been using these collets since about 1963. I make my own or you can buy store bought ones from different makers. I have also used Rovi ID collets made in the Los Angeles area. And they can hold bores up too 6 inch dia size with their 5c expanding collets. Google Rovi to see them working. They can be used in a blind bore. It would take me less than 30 minutes to set up.
 
If you look up Joe Pie on YouTube he has a video on various types of shop made mandrels that is quite good.

If you don't need to grip it super hard you cut a slightly oversized aluminum plug, and drill it for an appropriate sized tap. Tap it with a plug tap. Cut it on a bandsaw crosswise. Put it back in the lathe and turn it to final size a couple thou small (This will make it concentric if you dont remove it). Put the cylinder on it and thread a bolt in the tapped hole. It will expand when you hit the partial thread made by the plug tap.

Look how this guy makes a cylinder lap. If you tighten down the center bolt tight....instant mandrel.
 
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Thanks for all the good information. Right now, I'm going through my break-in tanks. I haven't even put a deflector on the new saw.

I was looking at this saw on the Saw Suppliers site, and they saw that I was in Florida. They offered me a $90 hurricane discount because of the storms! Threw in free 2-day shipping, two bottles of Red Armor, and a spare chain. Recommended.
 
maybe a mod like this but on a cheap 4 jaw. this one came with my lathe, not sure why, it's a 1 1/2" x 8TPI and my lathe is an L1 mount.

PXL_20241025_230225961.MP.jpg
 
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