Seeking knowledge at the well of Wisdom

Those are sure weird! That straight section next to the V way really complicates things!
Is your cutter long enough for the full width, or are you going to have to trig your way down?
You may need to grind the end flat. The surface speed will go to zero on the point.

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I will be doing only one side of the VEE at a time. I do not plan to machine either the Vee or Flat Way to what would need to be done if I was replacing with Turcite. This is the beauty of using Moglice. It forms to what ever void it is in. I will be sure to document as much of my project as I can as I go along.
 
Larry, I hope there was only material damage and no loss of life or serious injury.
Over the years the warning systems have gotten much better. But tornado tracks are difficult to predict. I find it surprising that more people aren't hurt or killed given the total destruction of many buildings. There were 70 people in the industrial building that partially collapsed. 11 to hospitals. Most houses in this area have basements that provide very good protection. A couple of years ago the small dairy store in my area got totally destroyed & we lost power from trees going through power lines. Grandkids considered it a disaster since we couldn't walk to get ice creams anymore. That store was there when I was a kid. Hasn't been rebuilt.
 
Just an up date on the Saddle Vee ways for my Clausing 5913. I'm taking my time with the machining. Yesterday I did one side and today I started the other side but my neighbor came over to BS, so I didn't get the opposite side finished. It's interesting because I blued up both sides of the Vee and as you take a pass it reveals very well how worn the chuck end was compared to the tailstock end. Before I actually apply the Moglice I am going to put .0625 shims and check squareness to the chuck and level both z and x to the bed. I have been working on this restoration for a little over 3 years now, so I am not in a hurry to mess it up. So here is a short clip and some pictures to document what I am doing. Bluing the ways before machining was a terrific idea because I can check my sanity on every pass. When all the bluing is gone, I will be at Zero.

 

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@ltlvt
Those V-Grooves look mighty clean now. Nice work.
Thanks. I am making multiple passes of .010 depth of cut to avoid anything moving and avoid going too deep. I have .063 Turcite shims to gage the thickness of the Moglice so I am taking it EZ-Duz- It, also using a vacuum cleaner to suck up the fine cast-iron chips as I go. I absolutely hate machining cast-iron. I will be blasting the shine off of those ways with steel slag to help the Moglice adhere to the steel. When I complete this one I am going to do the saddle on my Clausing model 100.
 
Todays progress on the saddle. Old technology using feeler gages and stops. My brain was too tired to read a DRO or indicator. The tool in the chuck on the lathe is one I bought from Joe Pie. It is designed for setting up rotary table on a mill, but I have found it very versatile. Great for setting the tool height on your lathe. I will be using it this time in the lathe chuck to establish a horizontal plane for the spindle. Theoretically when the cross-slide travels across the bed it should keep the tool in a parallel plane with the centerline of the spindle. Thanks for stopping by.


 

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More progress made today on the Saddle repair for my Clausing 5913. I made these excentric disc to assist me in leveling the Saddle to the bed of the Lathe. I had considered making some brackets with small jack screws these should do the trick especially since this is a 1 pony show. I used the MT-2 tool post holder to offset the stock and put the drill bit in the lathe chuck. Worked great. While I was at it I discovered a quick and easy method of centering the holder with the centerline of the chuck. I have a complete set of MT-2 collets for my little Atlas Horizontal mill. Just pop one of the collets into the tool holder and insert the appropriate size dowel pin or drill bit etc and close the chuck slowly around while adjusting the height and x alignment of the tool. I also discovered that if you want to speed things up when using your 4 jaw chuck just put one of the MT collets in the tailstock insert the appropriate size dowel pin or shaft and adjust the 4 jaws to a loose fit to the pin. Sure saves a lot of time. Once you get it within about .010 put the indicator on it and set it to dead nuts. This method works especially well when machining small diameter stock. . I am going to make some step pins when I get time, so I don't have to have a bucket full of dowel pins. I didn't get any pics made of the MT-2 collets because I was so frustrated. There was a knocking sound in the head stock of my lathe that was driving me nuts untill I found out where the noise was comming from. Damn set screw has backed out enough to allow the key in the cone pully on the Jack shaft to get loose. Gona need to take time to put some blue Loctite on that screw.

 

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The excentric disc were not repeatable enough so I machined this piece of aluminum stock and will clamp it under the front edge of the saddle to set the elevation. Learning from my mistakes is not a crime but wasting $100 worth of Moglice is. So Location, Location, Location is critical when using the putty. It seems silly to be posting pictures of the bubble on the level, but my eyes cannot be trusted when it comes to reading a precision level anymore. I wear trifocals and just trying to look both ways at the stop sign is getting pretty scary for me. So, taking pictures of the location of the bubble is a must for me. I'm still in the set-up mode and all the set up at this point is Testing. When I get ready to apply the putty everything will be as close as I can possibly get it. Thanks for stopping by.
 

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