Rod Storage?

Are we talking plain old arc welding(SMAW) rods, short and chemical coated?
Or TIG / oxy-acetylene rod that are long plain steel (with thin copper coat) that also tend to get rust spots if too old?

I suspect you mean the first type as you say "absorb moisture".
For that I use a storage container made for that very purpose, like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=rod+keeper

Also I made some using common plastic plumbing parts, the removable end is a screw off drain clean-out with gasket.
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I try to get them into one of these as soon as they come out of the sealed package from the store.

-brino
I did get some of these but not sure once opened if they can keep SMAW rod dry ... but I like idea of bulb in them as heater ... and someone else mentioned putting a dessicant in tubes like yours, which I would have never thought of ... all really good ideas ... thanks! doug
 
I did get some of these but not sure once opened if they can keep SMAW rod dry ... but I like idea of bulb in them as heater ... and someone else mentioned putting a dessicant in tubes like yours, which I would have never thought of ... all really good ideas ... thanks! doug

Our area has moderate to high humidity and condensation as well heat cold extremes. I use the above containers in unconditioned garage with no heat source or desiccant. No problems at all, some of my rods are over 10 years old and still works as new. One thing I am vigilant about is I open the container pull out what I think I will need for project and put the lid back on right away, once the container is sealed the rods are just drying the air in the container which is pretty minimal amounts of moisture.
 
I keep my rods in the living room. :)

The brand I use has a table on storage of their rods that states wether special storage is required or not which is handy.

I got the ones that don't require special storage as it was much cheeper to get them by the 25kg load than individual packs.

Stuart
 
Brino's Idea of using pvc pipe is one I have seen many welders use. A few of the ones I know have more them 1 tube made and they label each one with the type of rod inside.
 
I am with @Deerslayer; as long as I get the SMAW rods in the sealed containers and leave them there they keep for many, many years without a light bulb or desiccant. If required I have the old, retired toaster oven in the shop that I could use to dry them, but I have not needed to yet.

also a few related things.......

Jody at Welding Tips and Tricks made a whack of storage containers for TIG rod:http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding-rod-holders.html
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding-rod-holders.html

If needed, you can buy desiccant like this:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=53828&cat=1,43456,53828

-brino
 
Thanks a million - I keep track of Jody's stuff as much as I can - and thank you for the desiccant link! Chemical supply houses are more expensive so this is great.
ddj
 
Correct me if I am wrong but aren't 7018"s the only rods worth worrying about? You could always get a cheap toaster oven and put the rods in there for awhile just prior to welding with them.
 
you are most likely correct, because 7018 is low H ... at least, up to a point ... I keep 6011, 6013, 7014 and 7018 around for sticking most things together, and you are probably correct in implying that I am in the overkill zone ... but right now humidity is 99 percent (have a weather station here at the house); even inside the humidity is 54 percent ... so I am just interested in making what I have last as long as I can. I am not a commercial welder, so I will not go through rod fast enough to keep the turnover up to the point of not worrying about it, and in a lot of day to day, I will probably use MIG anyway, but there are always times like windy outside or whatever that rod is needed, and with my luck, the one time I need it will be when it is ruined ... so this is my ounce of prevention. Thanks though - you are right on all counts ... just another shop project thing I am interested in .... thanks for comment - doug
 
Correct me if I am wrong but aren't 7018"s the only rods worth worrying about? You could always get a cheap toaster oven and put the rods in there for awhile just prior to welding with them.

7018 will cover many needs and if I only got to choose one rod it may be 7018, however 7018 is not designed to be ran as many do on AC and doesn't run well on an AC only welder. If you have an AC only welder try 7018AC by Hobart, they run real nice. My second (very close second maybe first) rod choice would be 6011, they penetrate deeper and are great gap fillers, fit up for farm use just barely hold shelled corn kinda rod. Of course I learned pipe welding so we start everything with a 6011 root. By the way 6010 and 6011 are virtually identical rode on DC however 6011 also runs well on AC.
3/32 6011 and 7018AC will cove most needs with AC only welder otherwise 6011 and 7018

I also keep some 60-13 for extremely large gap filling and sometimes welding fast on thinner stuff in a pinch.
As well as some stainless rod that works in odd situations as well as stainless.

Just my thoughts ymmv
 
If I could figure out how to put my gear in in the "signature" of the posts I would have/should have done it by now but .... have not yet figured it out. Am running all Hobart: AC/DC Stickmate, Ironman MIG, and Hobart 165 TIG rigs so I can do AC or DC ... just depends on what I am poking at ... Also have plasma cutter, oxy/acelylene torch, and other small hobby shop stuff: old Hardinge TL lathe, Aceria F2 mill, horizontal bandsaw, chopsaw, grinders and other odds and ends. Trying to set up a shop during a move has proven to be one heck of a challenge - house comes first (according to She Who Must Be Obeyed) - and the shop gets attention whenever I can sneak in some time.
Thanks for your thoughts .... and it looks like you learned some of the same way I did ... burned a lot of that old P5 rod about as big as your bird finger on pipe in my early 20's :eek 2:
Take care and thanks again!
 
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