Resurfaced my, (new to me) Walker-Ceramax 618 magnetic chuck

All you said and then some Caddy man. No not an oil sight.
This gauge is a cheap Taiwan unit, it could easily be off by the margin. Yes it could have air, I just don't know what to do about it.
When I took the plug out to install it, I'm sure I introduced an air pocket.
By jogging the throttle a few times it settled where it is cold.
It would only go down as it warmed up right?
 
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Any air in the system is automatically purged out when the machine is started and the table is cycled, at least that is how mine operates.
 
I would think the level would rise a touch when warmed up. The fluid should expand alittle.
 
I found this manual. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/16500.pdf Section H - Trouble shooting - says the table reverse valve could be sticking. Also on page E 3 is the schematic of the oil system. It's been many years since I worked on one of these. I believe there is a oil cushion valve on each end of the table piston or the reversing valve... so the table slows a little before reversing. I would look at that Also that pressure gage is filled with glycerin to slow the needle. I use them all the time and the pressure gage isn't perfect, but I would use it. Another way I use to test table pressure when I went to check a machine was to try to hold the table when it advances toward you. Be sure no wall is behind you...squishhh..lol If the machine set for a longtime there is a good chance the reversing valve got rusty and when you started to use it it may have burred the valve or body. Open it up and check everything. use the stone I gave you and then put a light coat of oil on it and it should push back and forth with your fingers. If not get some 600 grit emery paper and work around the hole, and try it again after you wash everything with clean mineral spirits.
 
I’ll give it a shot.
This grinder sat for a long time.
Thank you Richard.
 
I am reluctant to tear into the valve block as I don’t know what spring and ball may go flying.
“All table circuit valves are contained, throttle, pilot and reversing are combined in one valve block”. (I)
I’m a pretty handy guy but I am venturing into the unknown here.
Anyone ever done this job?
Clean and deburr the valve?
 
Boc Boc Bocccc..... simple as any other mechanical repair, just uncomfortable sitting on the floor. Take a bunch of pictures while doing it. Lay the valves on clean rags in the order they come out. I doubt their will be springs unless you pull a relief valve. I bet John could help you or DH. Have you ever rebuilt a master cylinder for your old cars when you were a kid? simple as that Also I could talk with Bourn & Kooch who now own the old B&S company, where I have taught scraping classes at. Have Bob or John or Jim or John come over and help.
 
I agree with Richard, take your time & lots of pictures as you go. Cleanliness is your best friend in these things, you want things smooth & clean before to reassemble. Then a light coat of hydraulic oil as you assemble it. Take your time & you'll be fine.
Hydraulic components are remarkably simple for what they do, they're only scary until you've been in a few!
 
Bocc, bocc,
I fixed it!!!
I am including pics of the valve piston and cylinders.
They still show the factory honing marks and there is no evidence of debris or rust.
In the process I noticed the lever that controls the valve was set too low, it was causing a binding condition.
It works as designed.
Thank you for daring me to attack the valve!A5A29128-C55F-4BFD-B13C-BE5F470BC33B.jpeg5E6C57C3-FF23-48DF-B136-14D08D30DD04.jpeg2F415617-0260-4A9E-BBD8-A43A4C61EB30.jpeg
View attachment B68C40C5-39B7-4C85-AF3C-FC054CFFB4B1.MOV
 
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