Restoring a Deckel S0 tool & cutter grinder

[GreatOldOne]

Another busy day. Hubble bubble...

The nitromors does an ok job, if you follow the instructions to the letter. The small stuff cleaned up well, apart from the remnants of some red oxide primer (I think) and some stubborn filler on the wheel guard.

The main body was a different matter. This was it after one treatment with the stripper:

There was a lot of stubborn paint left behind. I think mainly due to me leaving the stuff on too long and letting it dry out. That’s what comes from being interrupted by SHMBO.

A second dose did for most of the residual stuff.

Anything else will be dealt with by some emery cloth. As you can see, stuff I’d done earlier was already starting to flash rust.

So I dunked all the smaller pieces back in the evaporust to protect them. I’ll try and put the motor base plate (the square piece) and the wheel guard in it tommorow when I fish the small bits out. The main casting will just have to go rusty with dignity until I get round to painting it. Which might be after some filler... I don’t know. I’m not that bothered about the foundry marks in the casting - what do you guys think?

I also managed to get the pulley cleaned up and mounted on the new motor. The new motor shaft was only 1mm bigger than the bore, so it was an easy job to enlarge it to 10.5mm and ream to 11mm.

 

[GreatOldOne]

I’ve managed to sort out the electrics. The NVR switch is mounted in a IP55 rated box, which has been mounted to the side of the main casting.

Power comes in the bottom of the box, into the switch, then out through the rear of the box. The earth goes straight through but is also attached to the casting via one of the mounting screws.

Technically I didn’t need to do that, as the motor is earthed and it’s connected to the casting via the motor mount... but I guess it’s better to be safe.

I’ve also filled all the major divots on the casting, and sanded it back ready for paint.

I’ve also run taps through all the tapped holes on it, so all it needs now is masking... which is a tedious job. I did some of the smaller bits whilst I waited for the filler to set up.

Hopefully next time you see it it’ll be green.

 

[thomas s]

Your doing a great job can't wait to see it complete

 

[GreatOldOne]

It ain’t easy, being green.

Finished masking all the parts up

And then had at it with the paint.

I’m really pleased with the colour. It (the Rust-Oleum paint) covers well. I guess time will tell on how durable it is.

It’s all back in the workshop to dry overnight now. I might be able to start putting some of it back together again soon!

 

[T Bredehoft]

If it were mine, I'd let it dry a couple of days then put it in the (baking) oven at 175-200 for two hours, turn it off and let it cool to Room Temp. You can't dig a thumbnail into it, once baked.
Looks good, nice job.

 

[GreatOldOne]

I couldn’t help myself. I’ve redone the machine tag, like I did on my Kurt D688. So I had to see what it looked like...

Laser printed asset tag label stuck onto the original aluminium tag, with a window cut for the serial number. Held on with M3 x 6 button head screws.

 

[chips&more]

Hello from across the pond. You are doing an over the top restoration! I have the same grinder. I use it primarily for sharpening my Gorton pantograph cutters and does an excellent job of it. There is reading and talk about other capabilities it can do but I have other grinders that do a better and faster job. I will be watching with enthusiasm to see how my different grind jobs you can perform with it…Dave

 

[Janderso]

Great job,
When I retire, I plan on refurbishing some old, lovely US made iron.
Good job, great journey.

 

[GreatOldOne]

Lots of progress today. It’s starting look like a grinder again, rather than a collection of parts.

Motor mounting rod back in and re-pinned, and the work head main rod reinstalled with the sweep adjust arm attached with a countersunk screw.

Motor located and fixed onto the plate, and the plate slid onto the mounting rod. The drive cord is in place as well.

Electrical box screwed back onto the casting, and all the wiring is all reconnected. The fine / micrometer adujust is also back on, as is the wheel guard and the dressing arm, which now sports a diamon dresser I picked up cheap on amazon. The first part of the work head is on the rod as well, as it had to be in place when the main rod was put back in.

My adventures in brush plating have been disappointing, to say the least. I was probably expecting too much, but the first aadjusting lever I tried to do just didn’t seem to do anything. I also tried a knurled thumb screw as well, and I’m sure it looked better prior to me trying than after. Hmmmm. Maybe I’ll just polish them. The other thumb screws and knobs look ok, and that just good ole super fine scotchbrite.

Blacking the parts that are supposed to be black was much more successful

The gel I got from caswell does a good job.

Anyway, it’s alive! Alive!

 

[GreatOldOne]

So, the tool head is back together. Thank goodness for the online maintainence manual here:

https://www.clockmaker.it/files_for...filabulini_deckel/monografia_affilabulini.pdf

It helped to identify some missing woodruff keys, which I’ve ordered. But it’s all gone back together.

I’m going to try and print out some replacement scales for the cross slide, as the ones on there have worn so much you can’t make anything out on them.

I’ve also started on adding a light to the grinder, similar to what would have been on there (but didn’t come with it). I picked up a cheap single gu10 spotlight for the diy store, with an led bulb. I stripped the base off it, and found a mains capable switch in my parts bin.

The manual shows the lamp suspended from a tube that slots into the top of the main casting, so I got some 10mm anodised aluminium tube, bent it up and checked it out. Left it long for now so I can gauge where to cut it. I’ll turn a small collar that will slip on the end and screw into the lamp stem.

Just to make sure the lamp wouldn’t be too heavy, I hung it off the tube. Looks ok.