Replacement Oxy/Ac hoses

Ray, I checked that site out, Global......., for the $7 arresters and couldn't find them........they're $27 and up.
 
Look here and find the size you need. Prices range from 5 to 20 bucks. Mine were 7-8 bucks: http://www.globalindustrial.com/sea...7665~~ncPCSMGR16E##2##u&q=check valve&x=0&y=0

I'm sure you're aware the gas side needs LH thread. Usually B size 9/16. Oxy takes RH thread -same size.

Ray

EDIT: I have some of the "expensive ones". These are no different... I use them on Argon, Helium, Oxy and Polypropolene, Acy and also put one on my propane heater setup.

EDIT AGAIN: This manufacturer calls them welding handle check valves and not arrestors.



sophijo said:
Ray, I checked that site out, Global......., for the $7 arresters and couldn't find them........they're $27 and up.
Click to expand...
 
Just so you don't think I'm hallucinating, here they are. One's marked oxygen and the other Gas. At first, I thought they weren't rated for flammable gas but, the mfg calls them welding handle check valves. Still leery, I called the Global rep and indeed they're rated for flammable gas. And yes, before someone says something, the line in the bottom pic is Vinyl but it's only carrying 20PSI argon, Helium and CO2 -nothing flammable.

CV1.JPG CV2.JPG
 
Ray C said:
Just so you don't think I'm hallucinating, here they are. One's marked oxygen and the other Gas. At first, I thought they weren't rated for flammable gas but, the mfg calls them welding handle check valves. Still leery, I called the Global rep and indeed they're rated for flammable gas. And yes, before someone says something, the line in the bottom pic is Vinyl but it's only carrying 20PSI argon, Helium and CO2 -nothing flammable.
Click to expand...


Oh I believe you. I bought mine 30+ years ago. I have seen them hanging on vacumn pack cards in the welding supplies for 25-30 buck a piece +tax. It does not surprize me a guy can buy them on the internet cheaper. Local welding supplies have gotten rediculously high.I have seen them on the regulator and the torch handle also. In my mind, like yours, the torch handle is the best place.

Paul N.
 
Yeah, I figure it's best to catch that backflash as soon as possible to spare the hoses of undue pressure.

For the inert gasses, I put them by the regulator just to prevent the tanks from getting contaminated. I use simple T-valves to join/mix different gasses. A bit of a pain but helium really helps and also increases heat output and spares the electronics from doing all the heavy lifting. Sadly though helium prices have doubled in the past year or so.

Ray


paulweldit said:
Oh I believe you. I bought mine 30+ years ago. I have seen them hanging on vacumn pack cards in the welding supplies for 25-30 buck a piece +tax. It does not surprize me a guy can buy them on the internet cheaper. Local welding supplies have gotten rediculously high.I have seen them on the regulator and the torch handle also. In my mind, like yours, the torch handle is the best place.

Paul N.
Click to expand...
 
You may want to consider a set of flashbacks at both the torch and the regulators as I once saw a hose get burned in two when a piece of angle iron fell on it and it was rapidly burning back towards the bottles. Thank goodness someone had enough sense to turn the acetylene and oxygen bottles off quickly. Since the oxygen bottle valve is double seated I always open it wide open until it tightens, on the acetylene bottle I only open it until it registers pressure on the gauge and then just a little bit more, that way if you must shut off the bottle quickly, it is a fairly short turn.

Something else you may consider is the Koike type Quick Connectors http://www.bibowindustries.com/Gentec_KOIKE_Style_Quick_Connectors.htm , especially if you change torches frequently. These also contain a flahback built in as well as a check valve so you can remove/change the torch without shutting off the bottles.
 
Heads-up!
Ray et al, Global Industrial has those "back-flow" ( I'm a plumber!) units on sale for $5.70ea.
 
Ray C said:
This manufacturer calls them welding handle check valves and not arrestors.
Click to expand...
They are 2 different things:
  • Check valves block the reverse flow of the gases so there is no risk of mixing Oxygen and fuel in the hoses or regulators.
  • Flash back arrestors snuff any flame running back through the hoses.

I strongly recommend having both as they serve different purposes. Many good quality torches have one or the other or both built in. It is still a good idea to add a set at the regulator end.
 
paulweldit said:
I agree with installing these, However you need to drain the lines and back the regulator T-handles "off" every time you close the bottle valves. If you open the bottle valves with the regulators set, it will often times trip the "Flash Back Arrestors". That is a good safety precaution anyway since when the bottle valve is opened with a preset regultor it can blow the regulator diaphram, pop off valve or even the case. You should also stand to the side of the regulator instead of directly in front when turn on the bottles. That is also true on Argon, 75/25 and CO2 bottles a on. MIG and TIG welders.
Click to expand...

You are absolutely right.
This procedure should be followed every time you stop welding with gas:
  1. Turn off the Fuel at the torch
  2. Turn of the oxygen at the torch
  3. Close both Tank valves.
  4. Release the pressure at the torch for both gases; the gauges should now read zero.
  5. Close the torch valves.
  6. Back out the T valves on the regulators until they turn freely. (be careful not to unscrew them completely)

The order of operations is important.

When starting to weld you need to
  1. Verify the torch valves are closed
  2. Verify the regulator handles are backed out (VERY IMPORTANT)
  3. Stand sideways to the gauges AND TURN YOUR HEAD AWAY.
  4. Open the Acetylene no more than 3/4 of a turn
  5. Open the oxygen all the way
  6. Adjust both regulators.
  7. Open the oxygen torch valve for a second or two to purge it, then close.
  8. Open the fuel torch valve for a second or two to purge it, then close.
You are ready to light up!
 
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