Project finished.
Glued in place with the Loctite kit. Coat everything first with the activator and then apply glue. Glue is just like super glue. Here I puddle the glue in the bevel I made earlier. It just sat there like super glue does. So I daubed it with the activator. It very slowly set up (over night) and turned white.
I heated the insert as best I could without melting anything around it, then filled in the bevel with PP using the HF plastic welder. As you can see both the welder and the rod were too big. Seemed to work though.
After sanding it looks pretty good (except for being green). Needs to be flush so the lid can seal all around (with an o-ring). The white spots are filler for the holes left by the self tapping screw I used as a temporary fix 2 years ago. I tested it using the arm-strong torque tester. Seems strong enough.
Thanks for all of the advise and suggestions.
I learned a few things - riv-nuts and using a soldering iron to melt an insert into the substrate for example.
Glued in place with the Loctite kit. Coat everything first with the activator and then apply glue. Glue is just like super glue. Here I puddle the glue in the bevel I made earlier. It just sat there like super glue does. So I daubed it with the activator. It very slowly set up (over night) and turned white. I heated the insert as best I could without melting anything around it, then filled in the bevel with PP using the HF plastic welder. As you can see both the welder and the rod were too big. Seemed to work though. After sanding it looks pretty good (except for being green). Needs to be flush so the lid can seal all around (with an o-ring). The white spots are filler for the holes left by the self tapping screw I used as a temporary fix 2 years ago. I tested it using the arm-strong torque tester. Seems strong enough.Thanks for all of the advise and suggestions.
I learned a few things - riv-nuts and using a soldering iron to melt an insert into the substrate for example.