Recognize this extrusion?

[RaisedByWolves]

I'm not sure a dado on a tablesaw is a good idea. First, the blade spins at high speed, so the aluminum will get really hot. Without coolant, there is a big chance of chip welding, or binding from heat. I tried my WW bandsaw on AL 1" with 3 tpi.. and it was absolutely hot, and had issues.

Tablesaws are dangerous, this just doesn't seem like a good use.

A table saw can do the job but as Jeff pointed out, its not the safest route. I'd use blades designed for cutting aluminum with a wax-sick type lubricant.

This scares the **** out of me.

 

[extropic]

Bench top mill? Which model?

15/32" x 1-3/16" slot. Use a 3/8" diameter carbide end mill intended for aluminum (high helix) at the max RPM your mill can muster. Use constant compressed air jet to evacuate swarf from the cut. Squirt it with coolant from time to time. Work the slot center down as best your mill will handle the cut. Finish cut each wall of the slot. Reset the workpiece on the table to cut a longer slot.

I have made more precarious and longer aluminum parts on a table saw.
I have made more precarious and longer aluminum parts on a router table.

Either of those, or a combination of the two, would be my choice, over a "bench mill", but that's not what you asked.

 

[Firstram]

No horizontal Mill. Professional woodworker, so i have all the wood tools and experience.

Cut the stock to length and cut out the profile on your bandsaw! A waxed 1/4” course blade will have no problem cutting that out. Finish it up with a file or clamp it to your saw sled if you’re in a hurry.

 

[Eddyde]

Cut most away with a single carbide blade.

If the inside looks off, the adjustable or wobble blade type can be used to finish.

A carbide wobble blade may work well for all cuts as it creates a wider slot than the blade, so no binding

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

I think the OP wants to make 24"-30" long pieces with that profile, not necessarily the part pictured.

 

[Eddyde]

This scares the **** out of me.

It can be done, I have cut lots of aluminum on a table saw. But yes, it does take a bit of extra care and set up to do it safely. I use feather boards, mounted vertically to the fence, before and after the blade, to keep the work tight against the table. For thiner strips, I also use a feather board, mounted to the table horizontally right before the blade, to keep the work tight against the fence. I also clamp down the back end of the fence, as it is a T-Square style, and have it set perfectly parallel to the blade, without any heel (As is common for wood). I spray the set up with WD40 and use wax stick on the blade. I use a push stick and wear a full face shield.

 

[borges1]

Bench top mill? Which model?

pm833

Firstram: not possible to get log lengths with a BS

Seems like hybrid approach might be most efficient: rough to shape on TS then clean up on router table or milling machine. I have power feed on both a router bit capable shaper and a big router table to take the pucker factor away and improve results. Routing tiny bits of AL really has not proved scary but i've never attempted a groove of that scale. Or i can set up the mill and move the part, which seems tedious: avoiding that is the secret sauce i was hoping someone had a trick for. Sometimes there are no shortcuts i guess.

 

[Firstram]

I overlooked the long length.
Set up your stock feeder and let it eat!

 

[woodchucker]

pm833

Firstram: not possible to get log lengths with a BS

Seems like hybrid approach might be most efficient: rough to shape on TS then clean up on router table or milling machine. I have power feed on both a router bit capable shaper and a big router table to take the pucker factor away and improve results. Routing tiny bits of AL really has not proved scary but i've never attempted a groove of that scale. Or i can set up the mill and move the part, which seems tedious: avoiding that is the secret sauce i was hoping someone had a trick for. Sometimes there are no shortcuts i guess.

but why do you need long lengths. Just make batches.
Whatever is the longest length just mount a bunch up on the mill, stack them one next to each other and screw them down on a plate. You can even use a wood plate, and double stick tape them or glue them to the wood. Then go to town and mill them out.

 

[markba633csi]

I wouldn't use woodworking machines to do this- far too dangerous
The blade could catch and throw the piece like a torpedo impaling anything or anyone in the path
Just don't

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I wouldn't use woodworking machines to do this- far too dangerous
The blade could catch and throw the piece like a torpedo impaling anything or anyone in the path
Just don't

That's where I'm at as you need to remove all of the nanny state safety guards to make this cut.

A guy on a boating forum I was on years back was ripping a 2x6 down for a transom gusset on an old table saw and had it kick back. Broke his cheek bone, knocked out half his teeth and he lost partial vision in one eye.

That was a fairly wide profile board, Id hate to think what something 1.5" across would do to your head in the same situation.