Reaming in line a viper V-10 engine camshaft bearing surface.

[sanddan]

I was not saying that you [/i]couldn't[/i] do it, and although you have a nice shop and all, there is more to engine machining than there is to most other types. I've done some engine machine work, and have hand built over 100 engines. My main concern on the overall project is the effect of moving the camshaft journals from their original centerlines. I haven't read that article yet, so perhaps it is addressed, but regardless, it is an issue that should be considered.

I would never recommend lapping aluminum. You'll never get the grit out. Due to it's soft nature, it will be embedded in the aluminum and be next to impossible to clean sufficiently. Sometimes surfaces like these are line-honed, but the better way to go, IMO, would be a burnishing tool. Better finish, harder surface for better wear, and excellent size control.

Naturally, using a lathe in that manner is possible, but measures must be taken to ensure very close alignment with the existing bore. As others have said, if the head is scrap now, you've little to lose, and much to gain if you can perfect this process. If I have a HBM, that would be my choice of "common" machines, not having the special automotive machines, but a lathe could work.

Check out the article Tony. The cam bores are at the center of the block so the centerline will not be moved if the boring setup is done correctly. I think you are referring to an overhead cam mounted in the head which would have a split bore. Also, he is overboring the holes so he can add cam bearings. I still think if it was me I would send the block to Gene Wilson just to be on the safe side.

 

[rafe]

I do hope you will put photo's of your progress up.It will be valuable to see how you set up the block and and dial in your accuracy. Are you going to try to find an antique boring bar, like was used in the article? I'll bet there was some very accurate work done on those straight eights...lol...I had a really smooth running Doge flat-head six......the eights were just as smooth....bottom line is it's just another line boring operation

 

[george wilson]

I know he's over boring the holes to fit bearings. Still,I'd rather not have abrasive dust in the metal,or possibly ending up in scattered about in the engine.

 

[Syaminab]

I know he's over boring the holes to fit bearings. Still,I'd rather not have abrasive dust in the metal,or possibly ending up in scattered about in the engine.

I m planning using the same lapping compound I use to polish and finish up the blow molds we make, what do you all think about that?

 

[Syaminab]

I do hope you will put photo's of your progress up.It will be valuable to see how you set up the block and and dial in your accuracy. Are you going to try to find an antique boring bar, like was used in the article? I'll bet there was some very accurate work done on those straight eights...lol...I had a really smooth running Doge flat-head six......the eights were just as smooth....bottom line is it's just another line boring operation

I will wait until my friend brings it over.

 

[Tony Wells]

Check out the article Tony. The cam bores are at the center of the block so the centerline will not be moved if the boring setup is done correctly. I think you are referring to an overhead cam mounted in the head which would have a split bore. Also, he is overboring the holes so he can add cam bearings. I still think if it was me I would send the block to Gene Wilson just to be on the safe side.

Sanddan, I'll check the article as soon as I can. As I said in my first post, I assumed it was an OHC. If the bore is to fit bearing inserts, then you're right, no centerline change. Makes that part simpler. Also simpler is the lapping. No longer needed. Since the cam will not run directly on the bores in the block, the surface finish requirements relax considerably. The size tolerance will still be critical, and if like some engines, each bore can be a different size, there are that many more chances to botch the job. I boring bar designed for this type of work is definitely available, or certainly is something that can be built. Obviously awkward if indeed the bores are different sizes will be gaging them during the process. Can't really get a common bore gage or even telescoping gage in unless you tear the setup halfway down to get the bar out of the way.

On the other hand, if all the bores are the same size, a couple of roughing passes and checks, then a couple of finish passes wouldn't be too bad. I still like the burnishing, not so much for finish in this case, but for close size control. If the decision is to lap, then the concern about embedding abrasive in the bores is less of an issue. It will still necessitate a complete teardown and clean up after the machine work.

 

[ranch23]

Well, you have my interest!

 

[Syaminab]

1. Well, you have my interest!

I need more than that, I need the experience to design a process which will outcome right. Please read the threads and make your opinion.

 

[Bill Gruby]

Unless someone here has already done what you propose to do, we are as much in the dark as you are. I have never seen the inside of one. Is your friend bringing the whole engine or just the head? A picture from there will help.

"Billy G"

 

[Syaminab]

Unless someone here has already done what you propose to do, we are as much in the dark as you are. I have never seen the inside of one. Is your friend bringing the whole engine or just the head? A picture from there will help.

"Billy G"

Dear Bill, the viper uses a center camshaft, no OHC. I'm supposed to receive the block only.