Re Painting MY Lathe & Mill

Tamper84 said:
Im going to be doing the same thing here shortly. Can I ask why the water base?

Thanks,
Chris
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Water base, actually it was by accident, I thought it was enamel, and found out when I couldnt cleen
the brush. My paint test is, If you cant get it off your hands its good. On the other hand my lathes
are in good to very good shape it was only to brighten up things. The assit is it drys fast I use semi
gloss cause my eyes can spot oil. I like it cause it wipes down easy and drys with no brush marks.
and the hardware store is a half a mile. sam
 
stevecmo said:
I used Citristrip on both my lathe and mill. I thought it did a great job. The original factory paint was pretty stubborn and took a couple of coats. No nasty fumes and safe to use.

I used Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum Professional Smoke Gray on both machines, brushed on. The paint takes awhile to dry hard, but when it does it's pretty tough.

Here's a pic of both to give you an idea.

View attachment 54241View attachment 54242

Hope that helps.

Steve
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very nice..
 
Ugh... you guys are going to make me feel bad until I paint my lathe and mill. :lmao: I actually bought a pint of Rustoleum smoke gray and did a little touch up yesterday and it looks enough nicer I don't think I can resist.
 
Here's a picture of my in process restoration using Rustoleum Professional Smoke Gray paint. Backed up with Rustoleuim red primer, all hand painted with 1" and 2" wide HF paint brushes.

100_1575.JPG
 
The problem I had when doing my BP was I could not get some of the chips and cracks the were down to the metal to stop weep oil. Thought I had it and painted the base. A day or to later paint was bubbling. Ended up stripping it with a needle scaler down to bare metal. After a few hrs in the sun and some paint thinner It was ready for filler and sanding.

8umy5asa.jpg
 
Strip and paint. I'm a beginner machinist, but a good body and paint guy. You'll spend more time trying to deal with filling,sanding, old paint and other hidden issues than you will if you just go all the way the first time.
 
I think you can get a very good job by sanding smooth and top coating. Stripping to bare metal is piece of mind that comes from the automotive industry and you will not necessarily get a nicer finish. My feeling is that these are hard working machines and if used will get dings and battle scars. I rolled all my paint with a foam roller and highly recommend it. It gives a nice orange peel texture. I also recommend adding hardener to the enamal paint to prevent oil staining. Oh, and thanks for the compliment I am sure you'll do just fine.
 
Just a comment on aircraft stripper, it's the strongest I have found. There is no doubt when a small drop gets on you. It's like a fire ant bite as it burn immeadiately. The water neutralizes it and it's not bio-degradable. A group of us stripped the paint from an old motorhome in the middle of a Texas summer. All of us were running to the water hose to get the stuff off of us at one time or another. It works well but one tip I got from another forum is after you put it on cover it with a plastic bag you get ftom the dry cleaners, it keeps the stripper from evaporating and it works longer.
 
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