Quickly Aligning A Four Jaw Lathe Chuck

My way to set a four jaw, centered or offset is LOTS OF PRACTICE. I set mine either way, centered or offset in less than 60 seconds with a single wrench and magnetic based indicator..

"Billy G"
 
My way to set a four jaw, centered or offset is LOTS OF PRACTICE. I set mine either way, centered or offset in less than 60 seconds with a single wrench and magnetic based indicator..

"Billy G"

No offense but why would I want to move a single chuck key to two different locations when I can adjust the two jaws at the same time, one pushing and one pulling ? Using two chuck keys, just two to three iterations are required to get within .002 and that's a matter of ten or fifteen seconds, maybe thirty seconds for a novice.

But heck, I'm no missionary trying to convert someone who has been doing this for years - whatever works best for the individual is the "right" way in my opinion. Two chuck keys just happens to be WAY better than one for me :)
 
I was taught never to reach over the chuck, even when it's motionless. Also, I have trouble finding one key when I need it, two, forget it.

"Billy G"
 
I was taught never to reach over the chuck, even when it's motionless. Also, I have trouble finding one key when I need it, two, forget it.

"Billy G"

As I posted, I always disconnect the drive system before adjusting the chuck. But I hear you, loud and clear, Bill ! Every time I reach over the chuck the little voices in my head (from habits learned fifty years ago) tell me that I'm going to lose a hand.

But, following normal precautions, I'm OK with reaching over the chuck in this case. I'm old school just like you (e.g. no long-sleeve shirts when operating a lathe) and I don't think that there are any disagreements between you and me :)

As far as finding chuck keys, of course that's a perpetual problem. I tried to help myself a bit by making the second chuck key smaller than the original to make it easier to park both on the gear box:

P1050069.JPG
 
  1. I used to use the two key method but I was constantly dropping one key behind the lathe, hummm
  • I didn't meen to bullit point it i hit the format button acidentaly opps

I saw somone on youtube that said somthing I try and do when I'm setting stuff in the four jaw, thats to only go one way, i.e. Only reduce towards zero, it kinda helps. (I think).

Also stepping up dti's or don't start with the one that reads 10th's ;)

Stuart
 
At machine shop that I worked for last summer, they tought me no gloves when operating machines and never leave chuck wrench in the chuck. As for using 2 wrenches would have been hard to do with 3/4" wrench. And only one wrench at each machine. Mainly used 4 jaw for drilling large holes (4.5") in up to 10" dia material. To use 2 wrench for me i would have to stand on the lathe (large Russian stanco). Only learded about the 2 wrench style from YouTube. Might have to try for my next project.
Jack
 
......As for using 2 wrenches would have been hard to do with 3/4" wrench. And only one wrench at each machine....

Several have mentioned problems using two chuck keys on large lathes to which I respond that this is a HOBBY machining forum. I think that most members expect to read posts oriented toward machine tools that a hobbyist might be expected to own - NOT machinery that wouldn't even fit in our garage !

Lacking a second chuck key, one might do the same as I did and make the second chuck key :)
 
Great tip. I use to do it like this & still do at times depending on my mood. However now I usually start off just a little different. Holding the piece between two jaws I center it between the other two basicly using them to point at center. Usually at this point it is really close. I can usually just finish with the indacator by just snugging up at that point.

This is my first time here & it seems like a nice place. I look forward to learning from you guys.
 
Hah hah love the two wrenches thing! Funny how those "how didn't I think of that" ideas are often the best and most clever
 
Randy,

I do similar to you but with one modicifation:

I start by indicating on jaw one and zeroing the indicator. Now I indicate on the opposite jaw 3 lets say I get 0.10, I then turn the workpiece untill the indicator reads half that error (0.05) and I now rezero the indicator,
I then got to each jaw and adjust it down to zero on the indicator.

It is exactly like your method except you dont need to remember a number, just aim to get your DI to zero.

It does require that you have a rigid DI mount, I have one that mounts into my QCTP.
 
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