Questions About My New/old Lathe.

I just checked my ways with a 24" precision straight edge and feeler gauges measuring the low points which were very near the middle. This lathe was used to turn armatures and shave commutators on generators and starters for old Fords which I think would explain why the low points are not right in from of the headstock.

1. Near edge of near way: .003" (tight so perhaps less)
2. Far edge of near way: .002"
3. Near edge of far way: .002"
4. Far edge of far way: .002"

I hope this means I have and old lathe that is worth fixing up and using. What do you think: good, bad, average?
 
Probably not worth worrying about unless you are trying to work to four or five places. A couple of years ago, I ran some figures to put hard numbers on the diameter errors caused by an error in tailstock height. Assuming no error in tailstock height, then the same figures apply to differential bed wear. The height error that I used was 0.010" (five times your reported 0.002"). With the cutter exactly on center at the headstock end of the workpiece, and in the bed wear case the tailstock vertical error zero, if the workpiece diameter is 2 inches, the diameter error near the center would be 0.0001". The diameter error varies approximately inversely as the square of the diameter. And approximately linearly with the height error. So with 0.002" height error, the diameter error for nominal 2" diameter would be 0.00002. If the diameter were reduced to 1/4", the diameter error would be approximately 0.00128". But that would only be true if the work piece were long enough to put the tailstock past the worn area. Or in the worn area. Neither of which is very likely.

There is also another possibility - that the 0.002" isn't wear but is bed sag. Put the 24" straight edge back on the bed. Put the 0.002" feeler gauge back under the straight edge and move it left and right, noting how far you can easily move it. That will give you an idea of the extent of the main wear, if it is wear. Put an 0.001" feeler gauge under the middle of the straight edge and move it right and left. If it makes contact near the 6" and 18" points, you can mostly or partially correct for that when you mount and level the bed.
 
Ouch! M6 241 and M6 243 together are going to cost me $445.92 from Clausing + shipping.

Where do you guys go for replacement parts, ebay? Or do you bite the bullet and order from Clausing?
 
show us a picture of the damage on the ones you have. We might be able to offer advice on how to fix them, depending on which bits are damaged.
 
I don't have a picture handy but the bull gear and the gear it matches up to have many if not most of their teeth broken off.
 
Ouch! M6 241 and M6 243 together are going to cost me $445.92 from Clausing + shipping.

Where do you guys go for replacement parts, ebay? Or do you bite the bullet and order from Clausing?

There are a few parts that you wouldn't want to buy used. Half nuts (don't buy brass ones, either), cross feed and compound feed nuts, gibs unless Clausing only has plastic ones, belts and any brass bushings.

That being said, parts sources would be (and not necessarily in this order):

This list.
Yahoo Atlas_Craftsman and (for 6") Yahoo_618 Groups
eBay
Clausing
Local or online machine tool or drive components vendors
Fully equipped Ace Hardware or equivalent (not Home Depot/Loewes/etc.) mostly for odd things like square head bolts and springs and steel balls
 
I left off Sears Parts Direct. If both they and Clausing say that they have a part, Clausing will generally be cheaper. Also, unless you are buying some used parts from an eBay seller and the shipping would eat up the difference, don't buy new parts on eBay without checking Clausing for price. Most new parts come from Clausing except AFAIK felt wipers and of course belts.
 
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