Questions About My New/old Lathe.

I share your addictiction. I really like mine, and probably never part with it.
 
Just found a post for 36" bed, he was quoted $800 for someone local to him, customer drop off, and pickup. figure about $1000. Then, you would have to do some work on the carriage bearing surface, and correct the wear. Pricey but it would really sweet when it was done.
 
Ouch! I was hoping it would be no more than $500.

For $1,000 it makes the new bed sold by Sears look reasonable at $1,400.
 
pgmrdan said:
This morning I found 19331 on the tail stock end of the front way. Is that the serial number? Anyone know what year it would have been made if that's the serial number?
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Dan,

Unfortunately, none of the Atlas 6" MK1 machines have any dates (from the factory) on them. However, we have some anecdotal information of the type "bought new by Father in 19xx". But no month. So that adds a +/- 1 year uncertainty. But using that information, yours would have been made/sold in 1946.

There are eight surfaces or locations on a flat bed lathe that are subject to wear. Front and rear of each way, bottom of front of front way and rear of rear way, and top of both front and rear or both ways. Of these, there usually isn't much wear of the rear of the front way or the front of the rear way, the front of the front way or the top of the rear of the front way or top of the front of the rear way. That leaves the top of the front of the front way, top of the rear of the rear way, and rear of the rear way. So check those first.
 
Thanks Robert D.

The indexing pin on my lathe is missing the actual pin that goes into the indexing holes on the bull gear. The larger metal rod that goes through the head stock casting is there and moves back and for freely but has no pin to go into the holes.

Is it easy enough to create a pin for that? Or should I just get a new one?
 
Depends on how much time and inclination you have. My plan is to fabricate anything that I can to save money, I would think that the pin would be no problem. You would need to be able to knurl the end so you could grip it. Personally I would acquire a tool, that I could make the part with. That would set you up for future projects. Or there is always this site, or eBay.
 
If the pin is still in place in the headstock but the 1/8" dia. teat is broken off, drift out the keeper pin and pull the remainder of the index pin out, taking care not to lose the ball and spring that are compressed below it. Face off the end flat and drill it for a 1/8" rod. Install the new nose piece with a drop of Stud Lock and let it cure a day before you install it.
 
I've been wanting to say that I hope I'm not losing steam on this project. Another week of scrubbing all this gunk off these parts may be all I can take before I have to take a break.

One thing that keeps me going is that after cleaning some parts I can I can see that there's a perfect paint job underneath though a bit oil stained. mrpete222, a.k.a. tubalcain, says that if limited on time to inspect a used lathe then look at the paint. If it's in good shape then the lathe probably hasn't been worn out or abused. I hope he's right. But in this case the paint was so caked with gunk that no rust could form and no paint wear could take place. It's incredible to think that someone did useful work with this lathe without ever cleaning on it.

I'm beginning to wonder if I should have bought a used Unimat or a new Taig instead. Nah! I'll probably buy another Craftsman to fix up after I get done with this one. How about a 109? :D
 
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