Questions About My New/old Lathe.

I understand that. But my point was that if the countershaft spindle bushing is significantly worn, it would be a sloppy fit on the motor shaft. If all of the wear is on one side (as it might be), you would at least want to drill the hole for the set screw through the worn part. Else the pulley will have runout of twice the wear (assuming no runout before bushing it). Given that the bushings aren't going to cost much, I would play it safe and go with a new one. It may be a light press fit which won't hurt anything so long as the modified pulley is a slip fit onto the shaft.
 
mattthemuppet said:
David, that's some confusing terminology you're using there. Half nuts on a lathe are the 2 opposing threaded nuts in the carriage that engage the leadscrew for threading/ power feed. The ones you're talking about are the thin jam nuts on the gib screws, right? You can make both of those yourself really easily from standard screws and nuts.
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Matt , I've been off line for a few days and am catching up .
Over on this side of the pond ( UK ) those gib screw locking nuts are sold as " half nuts " , as in half the thickness of a standard nuts , it was also used as a standard term in my engineering apprenticeship days some 50 years ago .

I've come to understand that the split clamps that close on the Acme type screw of the carriage drive are also sometimes called split nuts , split clamp nuts and half nuts by some in the USA & elsewhere in the world . In my Atlas MOLO they are indeed called half nuts .
There is no reference to the gib screws thin locking nuts at all that I can easily find .

We'll just have to put it down to our two United Nations being separated by a common language ;)
 
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pgmrdan said:
In my picture above with the centers and taper adapters can you tell me what the item is at the bottom?
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I have a similar threaded at one end shouldered parallel bar in the stuff that came with my lathe .. What I did eventually find out several months after taking possession of the lathe is that the thread is the same as the middle sized Jacobs drill chuck shaft ...does that help ?

The shaft on mine is about four inches long , minus the flat at the end .
I think it is there so that one can quickly set up a small three jaw chuck in the main head stock chuck , most likely for using a small twist drill or centre point to drill into a part being pushed up to the head stock by a crotch pad device held in the tail stock.
 
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You guys may laugh because you've been replacing bushings since you were 3 years old. I just finished pressing in the bushings that were delivered this morning. Even though it was my first time I believe I actually looked like I knew what I was doing. Satisfaction abounds!

The measurements I took were on the money too. The bushings fit flush on each end and slid into the holes with enough resistance so that I know they're staying in place.

I could have used another arm or two. I'm going to have to bolt down that little arbor press. :D
 
I actually found a 1' x 1/2" piece of 1045 TG&P on ebay at a bit of a high price but not too bad. The best part is that the shipping isn't as outrageous as the big metal suppliers. I can live with the price of this piece.

Unfortunately it won't be here until a week from tomorrow but I have plenty of work to do on cleaning the tailstock and carriage assembly. I need to get 2 new belts and I'll be ready to rock-and-roll! (as long as I don't find any more broken parts)

Can you tell I'm having fun? :D
 
Where can I buy chucks for this lathe? Will any chuck, as long as the diameter isn't too large, that is threaded 1" x 8tpi work on this lathe? I think it only has about 6 threads on the spindle nose.
 
Yup it should as long as it will register properly on the unthreaded portion of the spindle! Or a plain back chuck with a 1-8 back plate.
 
ebay is your best bet, I've been keeping an eye out for 1x8 4 jaws for my cousin and they pop up from time to time. They usually go for $50-100 depending on condition and I would personally spend more money to get a newer/ better condition 3 jaw than on a 4 jaw. You can also buy plain back chucks and a back plate to suit - usually $70-80 for a chinese chuck (the 3in 3 jaw I got for my old lathe was surprisingly good) and then $25-30 for the backplate.
 
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