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how many blades did you go through? Was it for you, or a customer? Pics?
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Question For Woodworkers
- Thread starter projectnut
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Nice looking. My son's deck is Mahoganny. It does not hold the stain. We used Sikkens on his deck and in one year it's mostly gone. One of the previous owners painted the balusters white using latex and most are rotted away... again it just creates a balloon that holds the water in and doesn't let it dry out. I don't like latex for outdoor paint. Unfortunately you are stuck if anything is painted with latex already, unless you take it all the way back to the wood. Oil based for outdoors makes better sense. Whitewash , stain.. even bare. I made the mistake of replacing the trim around the garage doors and using latex.. primed it before it went up and it only lasted about 15 years before it rotted away. I have to do it again. Once I finish this Sideboard I'll get out there and do it. Might even use PVC (expensive as all get up)...
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White Oak might be another option. It has closed cells so does not tend to absorb liquids. It is used in wine and whiskey barrels.
Red Oak is quite different, will absorb liquids and rot.
You might try treating the ends of the boards with this preservative/sealer. Its often used on pressure treated decking wood on fresh cuts. It will have a blue-green color, so probably only want to use it if the ends are covered up. It has some amount of toxicity so use outdoors and let it fully dry before putting it into service. Its not a total sealer, but will shed much of the water off.
Rust-Oleum 01901 Coppercoat Wood Preservative, 0.88-Gallon, Green
Red Oak is quite different, will absorb liquids and rot.
You might try treating the ends of the boards with this preservative/sealer. Its often used on pressure treated decking wood on fresh cuts. It will have a blue-green color, so probably only want to use it if the ends are covered up. It has some amount of toxicity so use outdoors and let it fully dry before putting it into service. Its not a total sealer, but will shed much of the water off.
Rust-Oleum 01901 Coppercoat Wood Preservative, 0.88-Gallon, Green
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Ha, I only went through 1 blade so far on the deck and siding! The Black Locust while hard, isn't as brutal on the blades as Ipe or Teak.
The project is for a client, we finished the deck boards end of July and they've grayed out pretty well already. The siding, also Black locust, was just installed.
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The siding looks nice before it grays. Nice coloring.
What spacing do you use with Locust. I assume it has a low expansion rate since it doesn't soak up the water.
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3/16" gap deck & siding. The wood was only partially dried, just enough to machine, before installation, it shouldn't move too much.
My clients like the gray, the interior color scheme is mostly black, white and grays.
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Nice job... I notice I can't see nail holes, so I assume you are either nailing on the side, or using biscuts (Lamello) hold downs, or the mcFeely metal under strips? or kreg side screw..
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Yes the deck is held down with clips (though not Lamello brand) in slots cut with a biscuit machine, and a screw, set Kreg style, in the biscuit slot before the clip is installed. That locks the board in place a one edge, the clips alone are not sufficient to keep the boards from shifting horizontally.
The siding is face screwed with trim head screws in predrilled holes.
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