Pulley ratios vs. the Real World

The taper you removed can be measured and compare with a Morse taper chart for ID.

Does your have a place to use Drill Chuck Drift? Mine is big and I made an adapter for screwing up the mt#4 tang from inside to hold it. Mt#4 is large though.
 
The taper on my Power King is JT33. I replaced the original with a keyless chuck from Shars with significantly less runout. I still think it is very questionable for milling.
 
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The taper on my Power King is JT33. I replaced the original with a keyless chuck from Shars with significantly less runout. I still think it is very questionable for milling.

It's called making a silk purse from a sow's ear but sometimes we are forced to do this by forces beyond our control like a catastrophic fire that destroyed my whole shop and everything in it.

I found a chart that I compared to my spindle and it is indeed a JT33.

This has been another learning experience. I always assumed that the taper was defined by the angle and the length was sort of optional.

Examining the taper and the chuck, it appears that a previous owner solved the holding problem with some sort of epoxy. It was conpicuous on one side of the arbor and hoping this could be the cause of runout I cleaned off and "replaced" the chuck.

Without getting violent all attempts left me with a chuck that falls out just by swearing at it.

However, my first try left me with about half the run out it originally had. This may just be a fluke, but if I can determine that the runout is well defined, I might try grinding one of the jaws with a Dremel before buying a new one. I solved the loose chuck problem once with a drop of super glue and it worked great. I suspect that was not invented at the time the expoxy was used.

I notice that LMS offers two similar chucks but with different runout specs and prices. If all else fails, this is what I will try next.

Thanks,

Jack
 
The taper on my Power King is JT33. I replaced the original with a keyless chuck from Shars with significantly less runout. I still think it is very questionable for milling.

We might want to move this to a different topic, but I just realized you own a Power King and might be interested in something I learned about this drill press.

First of all, there are a several re-branded (almost) look-a-likes and close comparison of the available manuals show conspicuous differences.

The one of interest is the quill construction. One has a bearing or bushing at each end of the quill and the other has one continuous bronze bushing running the entire length (5") of the quill. Mine is the latter type and I think I am happy about this. Seems like a 5" long bushing should last about for ever and be the better option for the side loading during milling.

The bad news would be trying to replace this. As I have found no runout without the chuck, I don't have to worry about this.

Wonder what your or anyone else's thoughts are on this issue.

Jack
 
20191107_101935.jpg

This is an adapter I made to be inserted into the drift hole. The bolt goes inside of the tool (mine is mt#4 to er32 holder). The tool would have its small hole made. Mine is a 16mm thread. So I cut a bolt, drilled and thread lock it. I use a bolt since it's cheap and also I don't have a metric threading gear.

This is like a poor man draw bar goes from bottom

For a solid steel arbor, drilling a small long hole in the middle using a lathe is probably very doable
 
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For the run out, did you check with various size cylinders? If it is consistent, then maybe cutting the jaw would do, else, it can be the other parts

The arbor likely has two different tapers. One for each end.

Maybe try the er20 adapter on yours (maybe mt#2 or 3)
 
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The taper on my Power King is JT33. I replaced the original with a keyless chuck from Shars with significantly less runout. I still think it is very questionable for milling.

One more question on the Power King.

Immediately above the chuck is a round threaded piece with what looks like a hole for a spanner. The manual simply calls it a nut. It seems to serve no obvious purpose other than possibly forcing off the chuck with a spanner but that is not the way the manual says to do it.

Any ideas what this is for?

MILLB3A.JPG

The manual mentions an attachment for a shaper but no other info. Above the nut is the collar that gets pushed down by the vertical feed and above that is a thrust bearing.


js
 
You are correct, it is for forcing off the chuck. Walker Turner DPs of similar vintage came with a pair of spanner wrenches for removing the chuck.

This is a link to the instructions for the WT, see the section under "Chucks and Adapters"

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/386.pdf

I'm not sure why Power King recommended using wedges. Maybe they were concerned that the JT33 taper is longer and the nut doesn't reach far enough? It worked for me.
 
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