Power tool vs machine tool

If it's possible


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So how would you do that with a lathe/mill/ what ever....

Get rid of the bulk of the material with a drill. Next, mill out a pocket. Using progressively smaller end mills, mill the corners as close as you can to square. Then finish up with a broach or cold chisel.

A slightly easier alternative is to use "mouse ears" on the corners to avoid the need for long thin end mills and do everything under power. Using a drill slightly bigger in diameter than the smallest endmill you have that can reach the bottom, drill a hole just inside each corner that covers the actual sharp corner. Then drill and mill the pocket as above. The mouse ears give clearance on the corners to allow a perfectly sharp-cornered plug to fit in the pocket.

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Do yourself a favor and stay away from the round column mill/drills. They are a really bad design, with any z move of the head losing position in x/y.

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I know round column are bad at maintaining their squareness though it can be readjusted.But can you tell me more about how worse they are .I know mill drill can't take heavy cut,that's okay I can go with the light cuts and working around it's limitations as long I can get the work done with decent precision.
 
May I know the type of cold chisel you are using .I'm having problem with mine .Every time when I'm trying to chisel a slot in a piece of steel,it will just make incosistent cut .
I made my own from a pulley tap shank. It was a 1/4" wide. Rather than the conventional shape, I used a double ogive profile sharpened to a keen edge. You have to anneal the struck end of HSS by heating to a bright red but it held up to blows with a three lb. hammer.

Nontheless is was difficult work
 
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Well that is possible but what I really meant was putting a slot in a piece of metal in the center and there's no hole on the other side.
The part shown would be difficult to make even with machine tools if you want straight, flat, and square sides. Add a flat bottom and it is nearly impossible. The best way would be by sinker EDM. A graphite electrode would gradually burn a square hole to the required depth. Another approach would be by 3D printing with sintered metal. In either case, the cost of the equipment is huge.

Regarding manually making the hole, I have never seen a file with a truly sharp edge. Also, files don't work well in blind holes. Personally, I would modify the design to make the part more machining friendly.
 
I know round column are bad at maintaining their squareness though it can be readjusted.But can you tell me more about how worse they are .I know mill drill can't take heavy cut,that's okay I can go with the light cuts and working around it's limitations as long I can get the work done with decent precision.
They do not loose squareness, or tram as it is mostly known as. They will loose your position, So if you drill a hole, then need to lower the head to tap the hole, that center on the hole is gone, and you will need to refind the center of the hole. A pain in the rear yes, but not the hassle as having to tram the head as many will make you believe. Think of it more akin to removing your workpiece from the vise, and having to reaquire a position on the workpiece.

For small projects, I still use my Rungfoo, its easier to setup and do small jobs, then my Van Norman.
 
Do yourself a favor and stay away from the round column mill/drills. They are a really bad design, with any z move of the head losing position in x/y.

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This is an often repeated meme but another saying I like is a good carpenter doesn't blame his tools. The mill/drill can be a challenge but those of us who have them and use them have learned how to get around their shortcomings. There are also some amazing projects done here like this Ford 300 inline 6 model Here that was made from scratch and all the milling was done on a mill/drill. Granted this member is a master machinist but he didn't seem to have a problem with his tools.
 
Do yourself a favor and stay away from the round column mill/drills. They are a really bad design, with any z move of the head losing position in x/y.

No offense, pstemari, but have you ever actually used a round column mill? Ever see one in real life? This is a fairly substantial benchtop mill with 5" of quill travel that eliminates the need to move the head for most jobs. It is not the ideal design, I agree, but having lived with it for about 5 years now, I think it is a very capable machine and worthy of consideration for a hobby shop.
 
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A skilled person and a hand file, can make better parts then many un skilled workers with a machine tool. I do not use the die grinder near as much as I did 30 years ago, but still consider it just another tool in my arsenal. I still do lots of work with a handfile, while sitting on the deck with the wife, watching the world go by. No timelines in my world.

This shows how little and simple machines can be used to make things. Also shows why gun confiscation will not get every gun off the streets. Back in High school metal shop, I made a simple 22LR pen gun, with a pull and let go firing system. Now days, a kid would be in big trouble for even thinking about it.

Sounds like our teachers went to the same school. We didn't get to touch a machine until we could create a cube. Was where I first saw a surface plate and test indicator. We didn't get to use them, they were used in the grading.

Actually, the instructor was a Bob Haas. Was a lifetime and a coast away though.
In South Africa I went to a technical school and went through the same process of filing a cube so it appears that all the teachers went to the same school.lol. In later years I worked in an engineering firm when a student from a nearby high school brought in a cube and asked me to square it for him on the surface grinder. I just laughed at him and send him on his way and told him to file it as I did many years ago. I am still pretty good with a file!
 
Well that is possible but what I really meant was putting a slot in a piece of metal in the center and there's no hole on the other side.
If you can tolerate an uneven bottom, I'd suggest a rotary broach.
 
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