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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
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- 794
Looks good!
No micrometer at all? Wow. Do you happen to know what thread the cross slide screw is? I'm getting ready to extend the 3/8 screw on my Logan 10" so I can install a large diameter direct read dial. Lazy method, just bought all thread and a coupler from McMaster. Plan is to use a sleeve over the apron bushing, though I've toyed with just making an extended bushing. Dial is all ready to go.
No micrometer at all? Wow. Do you happen to know what thread the cross slide screw is? I'm getting ready to extend the 3/8 screw on my Logan 10" so I can install a large diameter direct read dial. Lazy method, just bought all thread and a coupler from McMaster. Plan is to use a sleeve over the apron bushing, though I've toyed with just making an extended bushing. Dial is all ready to go.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 794
Yes. I'm curious if you can get away with a simple coupler nut. Easy enough to make one for that matter.
First picture is a stock later model Logan dial. Early models had a hex bushing head like your lathe. The hole in the apron bushing is for a pin spanner. The inside of the bushing on a Logan contacts the power cross slide gear. Most of the holes end up on the bottom, but not all. The round bushing/index lubber line is easier to cover then the hex head bushings, but not impossible. Or just thread the end of the extension and replace the factory bushing. Many enjoy making their own dials, Mr. Pete shows making one for a Logan, Winky also made one for a Logan and made a screw extension. For this I've one the |Good| Kinda Quick| Not the Cheapest| route and picked up a Bridgeport mill table dial and carrier. Made a bushing for the dial carrier and it's done. Larger dials on a Logan will be blocked by the cross slide, some just eat the loss of bed width, others make an extension like in the second picture. You will only need a small extension to have screw length for the dial.
Here's a nice Hardinge dial mounted on a Logan, all be it reversed. It was posted here or maybe the Home Machinist forum. I didn't take good notes. This extension replaced the apron bushing.
That’s like a 5/5 Alligator skill level
Can’t I just cut some grooves in the ball area and a line on the boss ? I’m good with 3/5 Alligator jobs in the machine hobby.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 794
Not really, honest. The apron bushing is probably an 11 or 13 tpi. Easy single point or die. No other threading needed. The ID doesn't have to be precision, +/- .005 only where an Oilite bearing (their description) will go. And if it's off, Locktite is your friend. No biggie. Off the shelf (eBay) dial and carrier, no need for a fancy dial lock. Built into the dial carrier. Off the shelf coupler with jam nuts, off the shelf threaded rod. Worst case if you need a keyway for the handle is :40 with a file. But I do understand the concern. I'm not called an avid destroyer of material for nothing. 
Not really, honest. The apron bushing is probably an 11 or 13 tpi. Easy single point or die. No other threading needed. The ID doesn't have to be precision, +/- .005 only where an Oilite bearing (their description) will go. And if it's off, Locktite is your friend. No biggie. Off the shelf (eBay) dial and carrier, no need for a fancy dial lock. Built into the dial carrier. Off the shelf coupler with jam nuts, off the shelf threaded rod. Worst case if you need a keyway for the handle is :40 with a file. But I do understand the concern. I'm not called an avid destroyer of material for nothing.
Yeah. That’s def a 5/5. I’ll stick with the on/off switch and the mic.
This is a practice part for a project I'm working on. The final part will be the head of a steel hoe for trail building. The flat part finished size will be ~6" x 9", and the tube will be ~6" long. A wooden handle will fit inside the tube and riveted in place. I made several of them last year, but using a stick welder, I had to use 1/8" wall tubing because I was unable to weld thin wall (1/16") without burning holes in it. Thin wall tubing is desirable for the hoe in order to keep the weight down so it's less fatiguing to use.
This year, I decided to learn to use a TIG torch for this project. The test article in the photo is the first one with a weld I'm satisfied with. Welding a relatively thin part to a thicker one has been challenging to learn. Also, welding around a somewhat tight circle has been hard to do well.
What made this one work better than previous attempts was a combination of getting the welder amps right, figuring out how to control where the heat goes, and limiting the amount of weld added each time to what I can reach with the electrode at a good angle to the work.
The rule of thumb for the welder amps is 1 amp for every 0.001" of metal. For the 0.125" flat steel, that would be 125 amps. For the thinner tubing, the ideal power setting would be about 60-65 amps. Running the welder at 125 amps consistently blows holes in the tubing. Setting the welder at the lower setting doesn't get the thicker metal hot enough to form a puddle. Splitting the difference to, say 95 amps almost works, but it tends to take a long time to form a puddle on the flat metal, and the work piece gets extremely hot. This is bad for the work piece and the tungsten electrode. The setting that works best for me is ~15-20% below the recommended value for the thicker piece. In this case, I used 105 amps.
To avoid holing the tubing, as you would expect, I direct the welder arc onto the thicker flat metal as much as possible. It's difficult to get the torch angle exactly where I want it due to interference from the cup, so I compensate by using an electrode stick-out slightly greater than the recommended 1/4", along with an increase of shielding gas flow from ~12cfm to around 17cfm. I borrowed a trick from a You Tube video posted by an automobile restoration guy, and I tack by melting a bit of filler rod onto the joint and then form the puddle from the lump of filler. This helps to prevent burning through the edge of the thin metal part.
I also struggled with the leading edge of the bead lifting off the metal joint and forming a "c" shape hovering above the joint. I weld from the point on the right side of the tube, and wrap the weld toward me. The "c" forms because the angle that the arc makes with the joint gets progressively more shallow as I proceed around the curve of the tube. The solution that works for me is to stop immediately when the puddle lifts off the joint and rotate the point where I'm welding away from me again so that the torch can be held pointing in toward the center of the tubing. This would be much easier to do with a motorized rotating weld positioner, but I'm trying to avoid spending on expensive, large, and highly limited tools. If I can find a market for my hoes, I'll reconsider purchasing a weld positioner. For now, it's just a hobby.
I learned a lot by figuring this all out. Hope someone gets useful information out of my project report!
Walt
This year, I decided to learn to use a TIG torch for this project. The test article in the photo is the first one with a weld I'm satisfied with. Welding a relatively thin part to a thicker one has been challenging to learn. Also, welding around a somewhat tight circle has been hard to do well.
What made this one work better than previous attempts was a combination of getting the welder amps right, figuring out how to control where the heat goes, and limiting the amount of weld added each time to what I can reach with the electrode at a good angle to the work.
The rule of thumb for the welder amps is 1 amp for every 0.001" of metal. For the 0.125" flat steel, that would be 125 amps. For the thinner tubing, the ideal power setting would be about 60-65 amps. Running the welder at 125 amps consistently blows holes in the tubing. Setting the welder at the lower setting doesn't get the thicker metal hot enough to form a puddle. Splitting the difference to, say 95 amps almost works, but it tends to take a long time to form a puddle on the flat metal, and the work piece gets extremely hot. This is bad for the work piece and the tungsten electrode. The setting that works best for me is ~15-20% below the recommended value for the thicker piece. In this case, I used 105 amps.
To avoid holing the tubing, as you would expect, I direct the welder arc onto the thicker flat metal as much as possible. It's difficult to get the torch angle exactly where I want it due to interference from the cup, so I compensate by using an electrode stick-out slightly greater than the recommended 1/4", along with an increase of shielding gas flow from ~12cfm to around 17cfm. I borrowed a trick from a You Tube video posted by an automobile restoration guy, and I tack by melting a bit of filler rod onto the joint and then form the puddle from the lump of filler. This helps to prevent burning through the edge of the thin metal part.
I also struggled with the leading edge of the bead lifting off the metal joint and forming a "c" shape hovering above the joint. I weld from the point on the right side of the tube, and wrap the weld toward me. The "c" forms because the angle that the arc makes with the joint gets progressively more shallow as I proceed around the curve of the tube. The solution that works for me is to stop immediately when the puddle lifts off the joint and rotate the point where I'm welding away from me again so that the torch can be held pointing in toward the center of the tubing. This would be much easier to do with a motorized rotating weld positioner, but I'm trying to avoid spending on expensive, large, and highly limited tools. If I can find a market for my hoes, I'll reconsider purchasing a weld positioner. For now, it's just a hobby.
I learned a lot by figuring this all out. Hope someone gets useful information out of my project report!
Walt
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Trailer 's gone , the firepit is gone . Mother Nature takes back what it provides . This place used to look beautiful 10 years ago when I could get up every 3 weeks or so .With gas/diesel prices , it cost's $500 just to drive there and back . I haven't given up yet but every year it gets harder . Black guns are illegal up here as well . we met up with DNR when the son unloaded a 30 round clip . That was an interesting conversation the day before deer opened up .
On the bright side, fuel prices have been dropping for several weeks.
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