POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Mauzinette]

While listening to the Finnish presidential election on the radio, I tore down some wooden shelving units built by the previous owner of my shop. The shelves were held together by both glue and an assortment of different size flathead screws, most of which were already stripped

I.e. Finland got a new president and I got firewood

 

[GrifterGuru]

@wachuko

I suggest that, in the piping from the heat exchanger to the water separator, you leave a vertical drip leg (with a petcock at bottom) and T off that, into the water separator. I try to leave places for precipitated water to collect out of the primary flow path. I would probably step up the diameter of the drip leg to slow the air velocity and to allow for a greater volume of accumulated water (less frequent draining needed). My $.02

Last i did any of that on a vertical tank with top mount compressor, it was a minimum 6" drop with a ball valve that had a reducer in the end, then into 1/4" bore flexi Tee'd into the auto drain, BEHIND the auto valve. That way, it did not affect the ability of the compressor to build pressure, therefore allowing the pressure switch to correctly control things.

That said, the water mainly condenses in the tank as the compressed/pressurised air itself cools in the tank.

 

[wachuko]

Last i did any of that on a vertical tank with top mount compressor, it was a minimum 6" drop with a ball valve that had a reducer in the end, then into 1/4" bore flexi Tee'd into the auto drain, BEHIND the auto valve. That way, it did not affect the ability of the compressor to build pressure, therefore allowing the pressure switch to correctly control things.

That said, the water mainly condenses in the tank as the compressed/pressurized air itself cools in the tank.

Is that a puller fan? It would be counterproductive to blow hot air toward the compressor head!

I know, I know... I am hoping (need to measure) that the combined fan from the compressor with the now added fan from the cooler, will still yield lower head temperatures than before...

@wachuko

I suggest that, in the piping from the heat exchanger to the water separator, you leave a vertical drip leg (with a petcock at bottom) and T off that, into the water separator. I try to leave places for precipitated water to collect out of the primary flow path. I would probably step up the diameter of the drip leg to slow the air velocity and to allow for a greater volume of accumulated water (less frequent draining needed). My $.02

I did not see this in time... good idea. I will do something like that when I do the next compressor. This one will see light duty in the main garage.

I understand your comment, but it's also not ideal to draw air heated by the pump head through the heat exchanger.

I suspect (WAG) a pusher fan will do more good than harm and the pump head will benefit from greater overall air flow volume.

@wachuko
If you want to test, run the compressor, from empty tank, with the heat exchange fan off and measure compressor head temperature at auto shut off. Let things cool down, bleed the tank empty and run the cycle again with the fan on. What's the head temp difference (if any)?

This was my thinking as well...

When pushing cool air through the cooler via a pusher fan, it is cooler than the head, so not only does it act on the cooler, it also acts on the head even with a certain range of increase in air temp based on cooler temp . The fan pulley that works the crankshaft of the compressor head also draws (admittedly low levels of) cool air across the lower body/crank case area which helps aid cooling.

Using a "puller" fan on the cooler would draw air from the head side which would be hotter and, therefore, defeat the purpose of having the fan.

My thinking as well...

***


Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. Yes, I thought about the fact that I am pushing hot air from the cooler to the head... but it should be more airflow than what it has right now... so I am hoping that the temperature of the head, in combination with the additional air (even if hot) coming from the cooler, would still be lower than before.

Only way to know, of course, is to measure the temperatures... I do not have the temp gun here. It is back at the house in Orlando. I will get that next time I am there and make all the tests.

Lowes had the copper tubing/coil. So, I was able to finish that. For now, it is done. Only need to wire the 12 volts to the fan. Need to see how I wire it so that it comes one when the compressor motor comes on...

But at least I have the compressor back working.

I need to do this to the other air compressor that will go in the shop. That one has a different copper tubing size... I will implement some of the suggestions when I do that one...

Some photos... even without the fan working you can see the difference in the color of the copper pipe coming from the head:



The one after the cooler never changed color... wished I had the laser temperature reader here...









Auto-drain on the bottom of the tank is working.

 

[Firstram]

I understand your comment, but it's also not ideal to draw air heated by the pump head through the heat exchanger.

I suspect (WAG) a pusher fan will do more good than harm and the pump head will benefit from greater overall air flow volume.

@wachuko
If you want to test, run the compressor, from empty tank, with the heat exchange fan off and measure compressor head temperature at auto shut off. Let things cool down, bleed the tank empty and run the cycle again with the fan on. What's the head temp difference (if any)?

When pushing cool air through the cooler via a pusher fan, it is cooler than the head, so not only does it act on the cooler, it also acts on the head even with a certain range of increase in air temp based on cooler temp . The fan pulley that works the crankshaft of the compressor head also draws (admittedly low levels of) cool air across the lower body/crank case area which helps aid cooling.

Using a "puller" fan on the cooler would draw air from the head side which would be hotter and, therefore, defeat the purpose of having the fan.

I disagree.

Do an experiment. Take your shop vac and place the suction hose 10" from a light object and check the reaction. Then, stick the hose in the discharge port and run the same test. I'll bet there's a difference even with the same amount of air being moved.

These heat exchangers are so efficient, 100% of the extracted heat WILL be blown at the compressor head if the fan is pushing. With the fan pulling air, all of the heat is blown away and some cool air will be drawn across the pump. It's all about the intake temperature vs. the discharge.

Splitting hairs here but, just like an automotive radiator, negative pressure is more evenly distributed across the radiator. That large fan on that cooler will work beautifully whichever way it blows.

 

[Firstram]

If the water separator is auto draining, that is your drip leg. If you want to do more, add a 10 micron (or finer) auto draining coalescing filter after the separator! Used on Ebay, of course.

Either way, that looks great! You will not be disappointed with the results.

 

[wachuko]

I disagree.

Do an experiment. Take your shop vac and place the suction hose 10" from a light object and check the reaction. Then, stick the hose in the discharge port and run the same test. I'll bet there's a difference even with the same amount of air being moved.

These heat exchangers are so efficient, 100% of the extracted heat WILL be blown at the compressor head if the fan is pushing. With the fan pulling air, all of the heat is blown away and some cool air will be drawn across the pump. It's all about the intake temperature vs. the discharge.

Splitting hairs here but, just like an automotive radiator, negative pressure is more evenly distributed across the radiator. That large fan on that cooler will work beautifully whichever way it blows.

So your suggestion is that I wire it so it is pulling instead of pushing?

I have not wired the fan... I can do it so it works either way.

 

[Firstram]

So your suggestion is that I wire it so it is pulling instead of pushing?

I have not wired the fan... I can do it so it works either way.

I think the blades are designed to only blow one way, unless they are flat. Like I mentioned, splitting hairs! If you can hold your hand on the cooler discharge line, all is well!

Just wait until you stop getting any water out of the tank after heavy use on a humid summer day. You'll start overthinking all the potential improvements!

 

[Larry$]

add a 10 micron (or finer) auto draining coalescing filter after the separator!

This is a good idea. Gets rid of all sorts of contaminates.

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Finely got the taper pin stub drilled/tapped. Ready to pull Now.


Couple of turns on the nut and it popped out.


No fuss, no damage done.
Do believe I will pre-tap the new taper pin to save myself or someone else some trouble down the road.

 

[Firstram]

This is a good idea. Gets rid of all sorts of contaminates.

Surprising how much oil does get past the rings, mine is not dripping with it but it is oily! It also drops additional water.