POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[ggbutcher]

Something on the small side...

Learning this stuff as I go, first project is cutting teeny valve gear parts for my HO scale locomotive from 0.02" brass sheet. The siderods have crankpin bearings that make nice radii along the rod, so I'm working with the rotary table. Did some experimentation with various workholding, came up with this:


The workpiece is a 2x2" sandwich of 1/4" aluminum and the 0.02" brass glued together. I need to be able to slide the work up and down the X axis to center each crankpin for cutting the radii, so I made a self-squaring fence (has a small key cut in the bottom to fit the t-slot) and a clamp cut specifically to fit the sandwich. Not shown are the 0-80 screws I install in each of the drilled crankpin bearing holes to further stabilize the part as I cut it from the sheet. Haven't actually cut anything with the setup yet, but I have high hopes...

 

[Ben17484]

Finished off the parts for fitting my mill power feed:

And made an arbor for my newly acquired tapping heads:

I need to do some googling about the stop arm and fitting to the tapping heads as mine didn’t come with them. I’ll have to make them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mattthemuppet2]

World's fanciest work light base. Got tired of the thing falling over due to the heatsink in the head

And a schnoz pic

 

[woodchucker]

World's fanciest work light base. Got tired of the thing falling over due to the heatsink in the head
View attachment 471439View attachment 471440
And a schnoz pic
View attachment 471441

Oh now we need a new thread for schnozes.

 

[extropic]

@mattthemuppet2

That ought to hold it!

PS: I'm glad I wasn't around when the chuck was broken. Ouch!

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Maybe you could weld a nut to it. The heat will loosen the crud, then you might could lever it out with a pry bar. I would be wary of anything that would alter the location of the locating pin. Every thousandth at that index point will magnify into eighths of an inch at the tailstock. Pretty risky.

I think you're missing the point. If you go back to where he pried up the head, he provided a picture (and text) indicating that the fat end of the pin sank substantially into the head casting. That means to me that the pin wasn't doing it's intended job in the first place. It was loose in the HS casting. He wrote that he lightly (paraphrase) pried, so no way that would sink a properly installed #6 taper pin.

IMO, the headstock alignment will need to checked and set as part of the final assembly procedure. THEN the hole re-reamed and a new pin set.

The hole in the headstock casting is not reliable as is.

Baby steps, first thing is removing the pin still in the bed without creating a mess. I'll deal with the other challenges as they come along.
No welder available so will need to drill/tap.
Have a 3/8 x12x12 steel plate on order for the drill platform.
Pin measures .324 on the stub sticking out, around .670 remaining in the hole.
Small end of the taper is .310
In theory should be able to drill for #10 stud say 1/2" deep.
When I spray the nub with wd-40 it drains freely around pin and down the hole, so there is limited surface contact with the bed.
Hopefully I can jack it out without too big of a fuss.

Taper pin removal project will be on hold for a while so I can focus on putting some of the other assemblies back together.

 

[matthewsx]

Have you tried grabbing it with a pair of side cutters? Can use some thin plastic sheet (milk bottle) to protect the bed, I've pulled out a lot of stuff just grabbing with side cutters and levering out.

John

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Have you tried grabbing it with a pair of side cutters? Can use some thin plastic sheet (milk bottle) to protect the bed, I've pulled out a lot of stuff just grabbing with side cutters and levering out.

John

Worth a quick shot, tried my small screw pliers to no avail.
Don't want to tear up the OD of the nub, might need it later to register off of.

 

[extropic]

@DeadGuyAle

When you get around to it, I suggest you tap drill through the stuck pin (not 1/2" deep).
You've got plenty of room (annulus), I can't think of a downside and the drilling may actually cause the pin to release.
If not, I wouldn't be surprised if it spun during tapping.
The WD-40 leaking past the pin is additional evidence that it's some sort of bodge-up (not a reliable alignment reference) and the hole will need to be re-reamed (or disused) after headstock alignment.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Worth a quick shot, tried my small screw pliers to no avail.
Don't want to tear up the OD of the nub, might need it later to register off of.

If it is in a blind hole and you can drill through the pin without drilling through the bottom thread it for a grease cert and use a grease gun to hydraulically push it out..... That might actually be more complicated that you want to deal with but its an idea.... We use to use that method to push the alignment bearing out of the tail end of the crank except we would pack grease into it and use the end of the shaft which was snug enough to form a piston and tap the end of it with a hammer and the bearing would come out...