POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

NC jeeper you might try repositioning your coolant nozzle to flow down the blade guides rather than on the stock itself. My Startrite saw has a block with the coolant hose attached at the rear of both blade guides. The block is bolted to the guides and directs the coolant flow to the blade just before it enters the stock, and just after leaving the stock. The chip pan has a series of small holes under the vise, and a tube at the bottom that drains the coolant into the reservoir. Since mine was built as a wet saw it also has a series of holes under the drive wheel with a drain tube attached that returns this coolant to the reservoir.

I try not to use coolant because I hate to clean the tank. However, the few times that I have tried it on the bandsaw the coolant flow remains confined within the machine. On all 3 saws that are coolant capable there's a ball valve in the feed line just before nozzle. The flow can be reduced to the amount needed to flush the swarf but low enough to avoid splashing beyond the machine boundaries. It took a few times to dial in the one on the cold saw. The drain is so small the coolant return trough will overflow if the flow isn't reduced by the ball valve. On this particular machine I've found opening it about 1/3 provided enough flow to clear the swarf and avoid overflow onto the floor.

On Edit: I just noticed you do have a ball valve in the coolant feed line. Maybe putting a T in the line and directing flow to both sides of the cut will reduce the volume flow in each one to avoid the overflow.
 
Last edited:
Almost done installing the jackshaft garage door motor... Now I have clear area for when I move the Wells Index to its final place...

New garage motor.jpeg

I thought about raising the rails... but that was going to be a lot of work as new springs, the need to relocating those (raise them as well), and other stuff is needed... if the height of the rails become a PITA, then I will pay someone to do it... I am not tackling that...
 
So back to the garage door issues . We wound the springs yesterday and the door was open all day . After 6 hours of throwing things away , I went to shut the door . The door closed quickly to the bottom and then popped up just as quick leaving a foot opening at the bottom . o_O This can NOT be this difficult getting these springs balanced . Do I have to back off on the spring tension ? One more attempt today before calling the garage door service 1/4 mile away . :grin:
I don't remember if I read your response to my questions when you asked before?? Springs are engineered for the height and weight of the door. For normal residential doors 1 turn per foot of door height plus a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to maintain tension when the door is all the way up.

Chazz's post shows a Barber pole effect. Before winding you paint a straight line down the spring and it's easy to keep track of the winds. Plus if one happens to slip or break it is easy to tell. Don't know why anyone would do it any other way??

Springs that are not correct for the door are all but impossible to balance.

PM with a number if you want and I'll help you out.
 
Almost done installing the jackshaft garage door motor... Now I have clear area for when I move the Wells Index to its final place...

View attachment 431972

I thought about raising the rails... but that was going to be a lot of work as new springs, the need to relocating those (raise them as well), and other stuff is needed... if the height of the rails become a PITA, then I will pay someone to do it... I am not tackling that...
For none high lift doors I put pusher springs on the end of the track. One time of a cable unwinding when you close it and the resulting birds nest of the cable you understand.

You should like that opener.
 
I don't remember if I read your response to my questions when you asked before?? Springs are engineered for the height and weight of the door. For normal residential doors 1 turn per foot of door height plus a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to maintain tension when the door is all the way up.

Chazz's post shows a Barber pole effect. Before winding you paint a straight line down the spring and it's easy to keep track of the winds. Plus if one happens to slip or break it is easy to tell. Don't know why anyone would do it any other way??

Springs that are not correct for the door are all but impossible to balance.
I think I finally got it . The trouble was I had large equipment packed in right next to the door and couldn't get where I needed to be . I swear this stuff has to go . 33 1/4 turns on the springs and it balanced .
 
Senta com a bit late for that car, A local body shop was restoring a buick grand national over the summer and it delivered a bad running condition and they of course destroyed the starter before towing it to me. I did take care of the engine the spark plugs wore just gunked from being started and turn off from moving it around the yard. So i ordered a new starter, had the body shop leave a deposit because of past experience. And the second day they started to call every 2 hours, when can they have it back they need to finish it. I visited the owner of the Body shop and told him the starter is melted, the new one will be weeks out. He insisted fix it as quickly as possible and drive it over, so i took the rotor to a friend he added paper to few places and lacquer it, i cleaned and replaced the brushes and one bushing. Made it work but it won't last, took it over there, got paid, and later heard that that car belongs to a notorious guy and when he passed by and seen it was missing and was told its being fixed he got mad. Long story short that car went to germany and today the new starter arraved, so i have very expensive paper weight. I wish i took couple of pictures but i was in a harry to fix it and had my hands full of work.
IMG_20221204_194606.jpgIMG_20221204_194610.jpgIMG_20221204_194615.jpgIMG_20221204_194638.jpg
 
After seeing @Winegrower Tap adapter for the Hemingway tailstock die holder. I started. It is all complete except for the 22MMx1.5 threads for the nut. I downloaded the metric gear set 100/127 for my Wards 10” lathe. Only problem is they are larger than my build envelope on my printer. I am having work print them out for me when they have a spare machine. It might take a few weeks.

Glad I am a hoarder. As I found all of the ER16 collets in my scrap pile. Not good enough for holding cutters but will cleanup enough to hold taps.
c5e8381ccd237fc9804f7b3fa35ff9e6.jpg



Cutting oil is my blood.
 
Jackshaft garage door opener done! Light mounted, lock, tensioner sensor, etc. Amazed at how many accessories needed to be installed... Limits and tension set... It is done!

IMG_9736.jpeg

You can see that the power reel is disconected... I still have to move the reel... I wanted to leverage the base that was there from the other garage motor, but the cord is too short... Oh well...

And some refreshments to cool me down after a job well done... I do not like to drink alone... so one for the wife and one for me. That small fridge in the garage is awesome! Glasses in the freezer...

IMG_9728.jpeg
 
Back
Top