POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Fixed a rolling pin for the wife. One handle had broken off, the other was melted. Original plan was to make two new handles out of stainless, but it all went south after that :)
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Old remaining handle and first new one

Then once I went to put everything back together, one of the wood "bearings" fell apart. So I made a couple of new ones out of delrin, but had to bore out the end of the pin to fit them.

Then I needed to clean up the marks left by the steady rest, when I discovered that the bloody pin was bent and out of round. So I turned it true between centers
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And after all that, I forgot to take a pic of the finished product :) I'll get that when I get home tonight. What a palaver, would have been easier to make the thing from scratch!
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mattthemuppet2 said:
Fixed a rolling pin for the wife. One handle had broken off, the other was melted. Original plan was to make two new handles out of stainless, but it all went south after that :)

And after all that, I forgot to take a pic of the finished product :) I'll get that when I get home tonight. What a palaver, would have been easier to make the thing from scratch!
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I got your finished photo here if it comes apart again!

Bruce


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Parts of 2 days repair project.

My cousin had given me a Rockford 5” vise and I upsized from the 20 plus year old Harbor Freight 4” that had served me well. About 2 months into using it, while taking apart some galvanized fittings, the front jaw broke clean off. As you can see in the 1st picture, the casting was not very thick at that point.

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I was thinking about welding or brazing it, but the metal thickness was not conducive to this.

After looking at it, it seemed an easy part to make from scratch. I went looking in the heavy metal bin and found a piece of 2 x 1/4” square tube. Seemed like that would be much stronger than the original cast part. The piece I found was the perfect length, just needed a slot cut in the bottom for the pedestal nut. The top bearing pads in the main housing/rear jaw casting were 2 1/2” + wide, so I found a piece of 2 ½ x 1/2” stainless bar that I welded to the top of the square tube. Didn't need to be SS but that's what I had.

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Then there was about 3/16” up/down play yet to deal with. I wedged the previously welded assembly up against the top bearing blocks and fitted on each side a piece of 1 ¼ x 3/8” bar stock, vertically with an old hacksaw blade as a spacer for bottom clearance. Tacked that in place and then removed the whole thing for final welding.

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The jaw itself was made with 5/8 x 3” bar stock on each side and a 1 x 1 1/2” jaw proper with my previous jaw plates that have a V for holding round stock both vertically and horizontally.

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I think it came out well and should not break even with occasional abuse!

Thanks for looking!
Aaron
 
Well the lathe saga continues. Just slowly plugging away on it. Ordered the cheapest test bar I could find on ebay. MT4 on one end, and straight 10.5" sticking out. Checked it on vee blocks on the surface plate, for wobble at least. Seems straight, needle moves maybe a 1/4 to 1/3 of a tenth mid span when rotating it, about the same over the vee blocks.

In the lathe it shows some runout. Checking with the indicator, that may actually be the taper in the headstock. Checked runout at the head end, it was about 2 tenths. 10 inches out it was about 2 thou. rotated the spindle until the far end was centered on the runout. That aligned with the headstock end runout. Next, the bed was adjusted until the indicator read the same on both ends.

I did notice that the indicator will move on the far end by about 3/4 of a tenth depending on where I stand on the floor. If any of you suggest a diet to improve accuracy, forget it! That ain't gonna happen!

If any of you old hands have any input here... I think by going to the neutral position of the runout this is a valid alignment. But, I have this nagging feeling I'm missing something.

One test tomorrow will be to mark the bar and spindle, then rotate the test bar in the spindle by 90 degrees to see if the runout stays with the bar or spindle. I'm guessing staying with spindle would indicate the spindle has the error...

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Anyway, it's been a long time coming, but this lathe follows zero on the indicator over 10" of travel. That alone indicates something went right! lol.

I've got a pair of dead centers coming. The plan is to turn a test bar exactly the same size on both ends, and use that and the centers to verify the tailstock alignment. In general I'm happy with where this is coming. Cut a few parts on it quick, and I swear it cuts better. I think that could be because all of the ways are tight now. Or it could be me trying to justify all the expense to myself! :)

Little more checking, and then mount the DRO scales again.
 
Rotated the bar in the spindle by 90 degrees. The runout stayed with the test bar, not the spindle. While that's good news for the lathe, it means the test bar has several thou runout. Maybe it'll get returned, they spec 5um straightness in the ebay listing...

Even as is, it's suitable for aligning the lathe. It's just that the taper doesn't align with the straight part well.
 
Last few days i've been waiting on tools and i finally got it. I bought a diesel injector pop tester, had to order it from Kosovo, it arrived quickly, but the gauge is faulty. But the seller exchanged it got me a woking one in a day. I clean and tested all 8 injectors they all had issues, 3 of them could be used. For the last one i had to take apart 3 more to combine it and made a good set. Then come the big task of cleaning the holes where the injectors seal. There is a tool that i don't have so i use wire brushes, picks, air and chemicals to clean them good. I'm waiting for new copper washers to arrive for the injectors and i'm going to change the glow plugs. Its going to be "fun" getting all the air out but let's hope all this work is not for noting. I did take a short video of the injector testing.
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Those aren't too hard to bleed out. I fill the fuel filter first and hook my suction brake bleeder to the injector return line to pull out air and get fuel to the injectors. It will usually start pretty quickly after that and then just let it idle a bit and it's done.
 
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