POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

…I am curious if you think the problem lies in the mounting hole or if you feel the perimeter of the saw itself is not concentric.

I messed with shims between the back face and arbor washer but never could make much improvement in the cutting teeth runout. It looks like the mounting hole and rear surface are quite true, but the front edge with teeth is just a bit wobbly relative to the mounting surface.

This is a Lenox, $18 from Amazon.

It worked reasonably well when cutting. I’m sure an annular cutter would be great but, for the money and intended use here, the home saw works. The arbor did seem to help things stay rigid and true as possible.
 
You forgot to add the locking pins.

Normal hole saw is not a precision cutting tool.

Normal arbor has a sliding pair of pins for larger saws and edges for smaller ones.

The vibration from cutting combined with the torque from turning will marry the cutter to the arbor.

Could be a way to add something to this, it looks real nice as it is.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Today I spent some time cleaning my big garage. The task is to rearrange couple thing to have more space for storage and get one of my old project cars out of storage to hopefully finish it sometime. First i had to clear out everything from Mi16x4 to push it out, the rear hydraulics have gone flat. Also the tires are flat so it was hard to push out, at this point i could see the little Fiat but i still need to move a bunch of things to get to it and move it but i run out of time.
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Made a firewood rack for the veranda.
The local water well driller gets his poly pipe on non-returnable metal spools 4 foot in diameter. This was one ring cut in half, the spokes made the crossers and legs.
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Greg
 
Well, not exactly a project in the shop, but a project for the shop. Spent the day laying out a PCB for my ELS. My design works but I want to package the mess into a box and get rid of the solder-less breadboard. Hand routed the board. Had to make some custom footprints for the touch display. The 3.2" diagonal touch panel display sits on top of the other components within the white line. No physical button, all controlled by the panel. I have a day or two more work to go, but made decent progress. When I look at the board it is deceptively simple.
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That's the brains to control the ELS. The board is just about 100mm x 100mm. It will go in a Bud box, or something like that, with back panel connectors to hook up to the stepper motor controller, the rotary encoder, and my two lathe DRO's. I haven't designed something like this in nearly 4 decades, was quite the challenge. Learning the tools was not easy for me.
 
I finally finished an old bamboo rod rebuild. I had to use the wood lathe, as well as the metal lathe. Wood lathe used to turn the old wood core down to the right size for the new reel seat, and the metal lathe is because after feeling the balance in a cheap Chinesium rod with the reel seat installed backwards, I've started doing that myself (and intentionally, just started another fiberglass rod the same way).

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The reel sitting on it in the pictures is a cheap plastic one. I have a new reel for it (gun metal gray to match the eyelets), but I did put one of my better reels on it for a test while I waited - what can I say, it's a usable fly rod with family history (my wife didn't want a "mantle piece" or a decoration, she wanted it to be functional, so it was a full restore on it to make sure it did).

Edit: to make the reel seats work backwards, I have to turn some bushings down to fit under/between the handle and brace against the tip-end of the seat. You can see a little aluminum ring at the base of the handle that is larger than the reel seat threads - and it is what I used the South Bend to do. Multiple lathes, drills, etc to make this one work.
 
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