PM1440GT Motor Swap...

[mksj]

The auto-tune makes that whine, but something is dropping out when it comes close to stopping. Get rid of the clamp on filters on the motor cable, they they are not needed and they are the wrong type. What is typically used is a single donut and each motor is wrapped around the donut several times equal distant and in the same direction of winding, otherwise a dv/dt filter. Neither should be used with such a short cable. Most people wouldn't even shield it for that length.

 

[LVLAaron]

They were removed for that "test"

Would you also remove the cheap RFI filter?

 

[mksj]

Input filter should make no difference, fine to leave it. Technically you want one specific to the application and low leakage current, example below.

 

[LVLAaron]

The drama continues with this project.


Decided to turn something and make sure all was working. Fire it up in in constant torque, VFD - Running on M/2 gear, 60 hz60hz -


I can almost stop it dead by gripping my outboard spider (I know I know, I had my mother on speed dial and wore two condoms)


Switched it to sensorless vector, hiccuped during startup of course, and pretty close to the same thing.


Turning 60 thou depth on some 416 stainless bogs it down to about half speed.


I'm going to drink a lot of bourbon tonight boys.

 

[mksj]

Something is distinctly wrong, that combination you should not be able to stop the motor at any speed. Maybe try bypassing the the input filter and fusing, also maybe try a different circuit, it almost seems like the VFD is starved of current. Check your wiring and terminals back to the panel breaker, there should be no neutral connections. Try to take a better picture of your VFD connections.

 

[LVLAaron]

Shop power is good, I run other large tools (Air Compressor, large AC, no problems. Voltage is 123 per line) - Stock motor was strong.

Bypassed the input filter.

Started the motor and put a clamp meter on everything. Input is about 4.5 amps per line, output to motor is about the same on all 3 lines. Connections are all crimped properly and secured to their terminals.
Checked motor wiring again, for the 10th time.

 

[LVLAaron]

OK. Some good news. I am dumb! - The power loss was just a belt slip. (crappy link belt, new pulley has gloss paint... she slips easy!)

Tightened it down.. All kinds of torque in either CT or SV mode.

Last post, I promise, until I talk to the drives warehouse support guy.


When this is all said and done, I'm sending mksj a bottle of his favorite bourbon.

 

[mksj]

Only drink wine, but this saga may have me thinking otherwise. Sorry but link belts are just temporary, and will not provide smooth control. I am still puzzled by the auto-tune problems, and motor hiccups. I am only a hobbyist but have been involved with hundreds of these VFD installs and this one is really challenge to get to the bottom of the issue. I usually eliminate all the variables, start with basic wiring/programming and sequentially reintroduce the variables to see the cause. The inverter/vector motors are bullet proof, so that is rarely an issue, and since they differ significantly from standard motors the one reason why they benefit form the auto-tune. In mills I run these motors form 20-200 Hz so sensorless vector control is important, in your application either CT or SV mode is fine, but the motor should not fault on auto tune. I am wondering if there is something new with the sourcing of these VFD's, software changes, or design changes that might be a bug. I used the WJ200 for years and only recently a few people have had some issues with them. I have been switching some of my builds to Yaskawa drives, but the supply in the US has dried up and the prices have gone up significantly.

Your wiring to the looks good, I see no issues. More FYI, when using shielded cables I do not ;eave any shield exposed because of risk of shorting. In the build below the motor cable shield is completely covered and bonded with the cable ground wire at both ends, the shield control cables are bonded to the connector/box because I am using plugs otherwise they would come in and control shields are grounded to the VFD ground screw same as you have done. This is just for safety, and these days I try to use finger safe terminals and below the power in has a plastic cover, I also do this for my motor connections and then wrap that with electrical tape. I am of the premise of what if, even if it is highly unlikely which is the reason for redundancy in systems and looking at failure mode scenarios.

 

[Ischgl99]

A high carrier frequency can cause this problem. Try reducing B083 from 12 to like 6 and see if it goes away. If so, then you can increase it until it starts causing a problem again if the whine is annoying.

 

[LVLAaron]

No change on the carrier.
I did some fiddling this morning and got it to run really smooth in sensorless vector. S curve acceleration cured the starting hiccup.
Still can't auto tune with rotation.

Calling drives warehouse after a mid-day meeting.
I hooked up my original factory motor just to make sure the VFD was healthy and everything worked as it should.... I'm about to just put it back on there until I get my spare VFD back and can fiddle fart around with this.