PM1440GT Motor Swap...

Try to make the following parameter changes, the rest look OK.
B022 = 170
B052 = 380
B085 = 00 (Japan) see if there is any other settings such as standard or US/North America
I have never encountered a problem with Auto-Tune with 100's of builds, so a bit perplexed on that one and certainly the deceleration time is conservative in particular with no drive attached. If it faults try static tune, but pretty strange. I have also installed quite a few of these inverter/vector motors and never encountered any issues like you are having.
 
mksj said:
Try to make the following parameter changes, the rest look OK.
B022 = 170
B052 = 380
B085 = 00 (Japan) see if there is any other settings such as standard or US/North America
I have never encountered a problem with Auto-Tune with 100's of builds, so a bit perplexed on that one and certainly the deceleration time is conservative in particular with no drive attached. If it faults try static tune, but pretty strange. I have also installed quite a few of these inverter/vector motors and never encountered any issues like you are having.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll give it a shot. Stay tuned.
The options for B085 are Japan, EU, China.
B022 was already 170.

Do these settings affect the auto-tune?
 
B052 change should prevent it from tripping on deceleration, the country of origin only on reset. The thing is that the default settings for Japan are quite a bit different then US.
 
Here's the "hiccup" it has when in sensorless mode. (Same thing happens with no belt)


Here it is in Constant Torque mode w/ a 4 second spinup

I'll retry the auto-tune with rotation in a day or two when I get proper belts and swap the motor cable.
The Drives Warehouse tech said wonky pots can cause weird issues... I have a cheap 2k pot I could try.


At the end of the day... if it's running well... is it worth chasing my tail?
 
  • Like
Reactions: B2
I would try to run the auto-tune with the belt off just to see (try it in sensorless vector mode, if it still cogs then try it in constant torque and load the new motor constants H002 =02), if it does not run smoothly in SVC then just run it in constant torque. These motors are quite different in their motor constants vs. a standard motor. End of the day unless you are running it at the RPM extremes you will not notice any major difference between SVC and CT. It is still perplexing that it ran fine and then later on you started to have these issues. It may be in sensorless vector that there is some form of feedback loop so that the motor is oscillating.

The speed pot has no effect when doing the Auto-tune, but I have mentioned previously that with cheap speed pots, typically carbon track type that the wiper tension and resistance can vary with vibration or just poor mechanical properties and the speed will jump around. I usually recommend a better quality speed pot that has a plastic (hot molded) resistance track or wire wound types. The 2W types tends to be a little heavier built, but there is very limited current so a lower wattage could be used if it is a better pot, they often list the MTBF and the better pots are rated for over 100,000 turns (some in the millions).
 
mksj said:
I would try to run the auto-tune with the belt off just to see (try it in sensorless vector mode, if it still cogs then try it in constant torque and load the new motor constants H002 =02), if it does not run smoothly in SVC then just run it in constant torque. These motors are quite different in their motor constants vs. a standard motor. End of the day unless you are running it at the RPM extremes you will not notice any major difference between SVC and CT. It is still perplexing that it ran fine and then later on you started to have these issues. It may be in sensorless vector that there is some form of feedback loop so that the motor is oscillating.

The speed pot has no effect when doing the Auto-tune, but I have mentioned previously that with cheap speed pots, typically carbon track type that the wiper tension and resistance can vary with vibration or just poor mechanical properties and the speed will jump around. I usually recommend a better quality speed pot that has a plastic (hot molded) resistance track or wire wound types. The 2W types tends to be a little heavier built, but there is very limited current so a lower wattage could be used if it is a better pot, they often list the MTBF and the better pots are rated for over 100,000 turns (some in the millions).
Click to expand...

Will give it a whack tomorrow night when my new belts and wire arrive.
I doubt I have a problem with the pot, if the hz display on the vfd is any indication. It's pretty solid.

And yeah, I don't veer too far from 60hz. Maybe as low as 45 if I'm threading close to a shoulder. The gearbox gives me the flexibility I need.
 
I'd bypass that input filter your using. Not being able to complete auto-tune is telling you something is out of whack.
 
LVLAaron said:
The RFI filter? Or the ferrite chokes on the motor cable?
Click to expand...

Yes

Did the manual for the VFD indicate that ferrite chokes were needed? I'm not using either and have no issues. Couldn't tell exactly from the picture of the wiring but looked liked the RFI filter was before the disconnect. Maybe you had another disconnect prior to that one that was off during lighting storm. Devices with MOVs and other filtering can be damaged with lightning strike. They might prevent damage downstream but they are usually sacrificial.
 
The RFI thing is before the disconnect. I should move that.
Here's what the auto tune failure looks/sounds like. I'm sure it's not helpful. I'll talk to drives warehouse tomorrow when I have time and let you know what they say.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top