PM1340GT with a 3 jaw Pratt Burnerd 6" SETRITE

[coolidge]

I'm just the opposite, I'm fine on a mill without a DRO I do my layout with measuring tools, mark and center punch and have at it. The lathe on the other hand...now did I crank the wheel 8 turns or was it 9 trying to keep track of that is maddening. The DRO made life a lot easier for me on the lathe. You can get buy without one its not like the lathe is useless without a DRO but every post I ever read after someone installed one on their lathe raved about how much easier it was afterwards. I guess it depends on what you are doing, I'm turning to tight tolerances on the lathe, the mill not so much.

 

[mksj]

Agree with darkzero on the DRO, especially on the mill. My dials were inaccurate which made the DRO mandatory for my mill. On a lathe, it really depends on your experience and what you are use to. I did add an Igaging absolute DRO to the tail stock, I would loose count of the revolutions. But I would not recommend using the Igaging for the X Y axis, too many issues with accuracy and battery life, for a small amount more you can get a full DRO display with glass scales. It is a great benefit in repeatability and decreases mistakes in position. I would recommend the basic Easson ES-8A, you will kick yourself spending this much on a lathe and not having a DRO. Cut the budget on the Chuck and maybe try a Gator or Shars Set-Tru type if you go that route.

I might be missing something on the Set-Tru chuck setup, I partially tighten the mounting bolts, and tighten the 4 alignment set screws. I aligned the chuck the same way as a 4 jaw chuck, slightly loosen one side and tightening the opposite side. I keep constant tension on all 4 set screws, onced aligned I do final tightening of the chuck mounting bolts, and recheck the alignment.. It may take 2-3 times to get it close to no runout. Once set, that's it. The TIR remains stable, and does not vary ( better than 0.0004") with repeat use. An independent 4 jaw requires aliagnment every time, and is time consuming to set-up, especially for repeated use. The 3 jaw Setrite PBA works great, so very happy with it. Waiting for Bill's review of his

 

[tmarks11]

Another first time I've heard to back out the adjustment screws after dialing in. I prefer to leave them all tight cause if you leave them loose, it's easier for the chuck to get knocked out of round on heavy and/or interrupted cuts or a bump.

Only while you are doing the adjustments; that prevents you from tightening one screw against the screws on the other side, which slows the adjustment process way down.

Once you have the chuck dialed in, tighten the holding cap screw, and snug the adjustment screws (finger tight). If you left the adjustment screws backed out, eventually they would work their way out and come flying loose.

The adjustment screws aren't really designed to hold the chuck in position. that is what the cap headed holding screws are for.

I might be missing something on the Set-Tru chuck setup, I partially tighten the mounting bolts, and tighten the 4 alignment set screws. I aligned the chuck the same way as a 4 jaw chuck, slightly loosen one side and tightening the opposite side.

You can do it that way, but it is considerably slower. Use the cap head mounting bolts finger tight to keep the chuck in place on the backing plate, and use the adjustment screws (one at a time) to nudge the high points back in. Try it; it should take about 1/4 of the time the way you are describing would take.

 

[darkzero]

The adjustment screws aren't really designed to hold the chuck in position. that is what the cap headed holding screws are for.

I disagree but to each each his own.

 

[mgalusha]

I have one of the Shars 6 jaw 8" set tru's arriving tomorrow, so I'll provide some feedback on it. The latest Shars catalog makes it appear that they've upped their game with regard to the chucks but we shall see. If it sucks, back it goes but the photos make it look pretty nice. 3 pinion design. Of note, they sell them for much less on ebay than their website. The 8" 6 jaw was like $700 on the site and 548 on the bay, the mounting plate was the same price of $93.

On the DRO's, if you can swing it, do so. I could live without it but the SDM (multiple tool) function along with a QCTP has saved enough time to have paid for the DRO. Of course this is only if you have to make multiples of the same part.

 

[Coug67]

Thanks again for the input on the DRO. I'm still waffling a little, but I think I'm going to splurge and get it. My biggest issue with the extremely small amount of lathe work I've done is cumulative error. Move over .125 for this, then another bit for that (think cooling fins), repeat. By the time I'm done, everything LOOKS ok to the naked eye, but the end measurements are off. I realize that will come with experience and a DRO is no substitute for careful measuring and attention to detail, but it would definitely make life easier. Right now, Matt is out of the Easson 8 DRO, so he offered me the Eason 12 at the same add-on price. I'm sure I'd kick myself down the road if I don't take advantage of it. Got the email today that my lathe is in, and they are starting the inspection. Can't wait to get this thing in my garage and start making lots of little curly chips!

 

[Coug67]

To me, very important...now. You don't "need" a DRO just like you don't "need" a QCTP. It's one of those things that after having one, you wouldn't want to be without one. A DRO won't necessarily make your parts more accurate or make you a better machinist but it will make operations much faster & easier.

I purchased my current lathe without a DRO, mainly cause I wanted to install my own setup but also cause I wanted to get familiar with the lathe without a DRO first. When I took the conventional machining classes at the local CC with my brother (he needed the credits & I was his ride anyway), I specifically did not want to use the lathes & mills with DROs. If you aren't already, you should really get familar with using machines without DROs first. That way you aren't "useless" if one fails or anytime you need to use a machine without one.

IMO a DRO is much useful on a mill than on a lathe. I can get by on a lathe without a DRO no problem without cussing, but on a mill without a DRO, operations & keeping track of coordinates is extremely more time consuming compared to not having a DRO on a lathe.

I'd opt for the DRO if you can. But if you can't & really want some sort of DRO, you could always mount some of those iGaging scales. They're like long digital calipers with remote readouts. Not as great a true DRO with limited functionality & accuracy but they are very inexpensive.

I completely understand what your saying about learning on a machine without a DRO before using a machine with one. It's all about having a firm grip on the fundamentals before you learn the shortcuts. I really need to check into the local CC's to see what kind of machining classes are available. I've been slowly learning using the more expensive and time consuming "trial and break things" method. NOT the best way to do things. Mechanically I'm pretty decent, but this machining thing is kicking my butt. So far I've had pretty good luck in aluminum, but I tend to burn up tools on steel. I've watched a ton of videos and read all sorts of training material, but seeing and doing are two different beasts. I guess for now I'll just take it slow and keep reading in places like this.

 

[mksj]

The ES-12 is a great deal at the ES-8A price, lots of adjustability. I have one my PM1340GT, it a 2-axis DRO set up in the menu system for a lathe. Accurate and great for repeatability. Glass scales are fine. I think it is money well spent given the rest of the investment. It will be interesting to get some feedback on the Shar's Set-Tru type chucks, otherwise checkout Gator's chucks at http://www.tools4cheap.net/fuerda.php

 

[GA Gyro]

Thanks again for the input on the DRO. I'm still waffling a little, but I think I'm going to splurge and get it. My biggest issue with the extremely small amount of lathe work I've done is cumulative error. Move over .125 for this, then another bit for that (think cooling fins), repeat. By the time I'm done, everything LOOKS ok to the naked eye, but the end measurements are off. I realize that will come with experience and a DRO is no substitute for careful measuring and attention to detail, but it would definitely make life easier. Right now, Matt is out of the Easson 8 DRO, so he offered me the Eason 12 at the same add-on price. I'm sure I'd kick myself down the road if I don't take advantage of it. Got the email today that my lathe is in, and they are starting the inspection. Can't wait to get this thing in my garage and start making lots of little curly chips!

If it were me, I would jump on that E-12 before Matt changes his mind... I have a '12' on my mill, great DRO!
BTW: Back during the endless questions before ordering phase... Ray told me mounting the scales on a 1340GT is a bit more difficult than other smaller lathes... IMO if I wanted a DRO, I would go ahead and have Matt's shop guys mount the DRO (at least the scales) now. They have the templates, it is just going through the motions (motions they go through repeatedly on many 1340's). For me to figure it out and do it, would be an all afternoon deal.

 

[darkzero]

The ES-8A is perfectly fine on a lathe but I'd definitely hop on that ES-12 offer. I have the ES-12 on my mill & like it a lot. Unfortunately there's really no advantage of having the ES-12 on a lathe as you won't be able to use all the other features (mill features) but it really is a nice DRO. In fact the ES-8A can basically do everything the ES-12 can but the ES-12 is a graphical display.