PM1340 - the Best & Jacobs Full Custom Edition

Pcmaker said:
I see you changed the motor. I was going to ask you how much DOC the machine can take before it struggles.

Also, I think you need to do change gears only when switching to metric.

-You don't need to go back and forth to do threading and feed rate?
-How much of a hassle is it to change gears when needing to do metric threading?
-How's the surface finish?
-The way my garage is set up, I have to put the lathe right up against the wall. Is this going to be an issue with the 1340GT? Do I need to occassionally have to access behind it?
Click to expand...
  • Complete threading charts for the 1340GT are attached.
  • Feed rates for carriage and cross-slide are listed on the front panel of the lathe - center column:
  • PM1340 Machine Tag.jpg
  • I routinely turn 316 stainless at 0.200" DOC using a Trigon insert tool.
  • I do a lot of metric threading. The 1340 is imperial-centric. If you want a lathe that's easy to go between metric and imperial, you should get the ERL-1340 that Mark described in another thread you have participated in, or tear off the Norton gearbox on the 1340GT and add an electronic lead screw. Build your own from Clough42 kit on eBay or go high end with these: https://www.rocketronics.de/en/els/
  • I am able to obtain any level of surface finish I have needed. A lot depends on the tool selected - lower lead angles help.
  • My 1340 is against a wall and I've never had to move it. If you get the taper attachment, that's a different story.

IMG_7289.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • PM1340 Thread Gear Chart.pdf
    142.3 KB · Views: 172
I'm really impressed David. Amazing work and attention to detail.
 
davidpbest said:
  • Complete threading charts for the 1340GT are attached.
  • Feed rates for carriage and cross-slide are listed on the front panel of the lathe - center column:
  • View attachment 343799
  • I routinely turn 316 stainless at 0.200" DOC using a Trigon insert tool.
  • I do a lot of metric threading. The 1340 is imperial-centric. If you want a lathe that's easy to go between metric and imperial, you should get the ERL-1340 that Mark described in another thread you have participated in, or tear off the Norton gearbox on the 1340GT and add an electronic lead screw. Build your own from Clough42 kit on eBay or go high end with these: https://www.rocketronics.de/en/els/
  • I am able to obtain any level of surface finish I have needed. A lot depends on the tool selected - lower lead angles help.
  • My 1340 is against a wall and I've never had to move it. If you get the taper attachment, that's a different story.

View attachment 343798
Click to expand...
That beautiful lathe is entirely too clean.
If it weren’t for the fact that I’ve seen your machinist skills, I would say the lathe is just for show.
 
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