PM1030 tripping breakers on startup

Would it help sort it out by unplugging it, turn the switch on then plug it in so the connection is at the plug and not the switch with the possible unreliable contact?
 
As part of a remodel we had a new panel added. The breaker to the range kept tripping (GFI.) The electrician said that was common especially on older ranges. Our range is about 15 years old. He put a new GFI breaker in and it does the same. His recommendation. When no one is looking put a standard (no GFI) breaker in. We've also had the GFI breaker to the frig kick out occasionally. The GFIs are code required. Safety first, spoiled food second!
 
I have never had a problem with GFI. Everything in my shop / basement, kitchen, both baths, outdoors and the aquarium are all GFI. I have never had a single false trip in 35 years, lots of trips for actual problems though.
 
As a reminder I (poster) am not on a GFI. I have tried the machine on two breakers and neither are GFI.

Today I rewired the machine to remove the contactor, e-stop, chuck guard, on/off switch from the circuit. I provided always hot power to the control board. This keeps the F/R switch, speed pot and tach in the circuit and operating as intended. I turned the machine on/off using a power strip. No breaker tripping.

In order to continue isolating components I would like to have the correct wiring diagram. The current PDF on PM's site does not match my machine. Does anyone have an older diagram for this machine, approx 2019? Current manual is stamped "PM-1030v v5 2020-10"
 
r-mm said:
As a reminder I (poster) am not on a GFI. I have tried the machine on two breakers and neither are GFI.

Today I rewired the machine to remove the contactor, e-stop, chuck guard, on/off switch from the circuit. I provided always hot power to the control board. This keeps the F/R switch, speed pot and tach in the circuit and operating as intended. I turned the machine on/off using a power strip. No breaker tripping.

In order to continue isolating components I would like to have the correct wiring diagram. The current PDF on PM's site does not match my machine. Does anyone have an older diagram for this machine, approx 2019? Current manual is stamped "PM-1030v v5 2020-10"
Click to expand...
see if this helps.

PM1030V.PDF
 
Dang spoke too soon. Problem persists.
Swapped the control board with a duplicate and same result.

I connected my clamp meter to the wire at the breaker and see puzzling irregularity at startup. I have a simple clamp meter that doesnt peak hold so take it with a grain.

Pot set to any speed. As a reminder this means if its not at zero the motor doesnt spin.

I will see anything from a nominal few tenths of an amp all the way to 2.8amps. To best of my observation its totally irregular what I will see on a given start. That is significant because I don’t see much more than 1amp at full speed (no load on motor).
 
Jeepers that’s frustrating.
I understand that circuit breakers trip under four circumstances.
Overload
Short circuit
Ground fault
Arc fault

I think overload can be eliminated from the list.
I’m going to make the assumption that the circuit is fine when another switchable load of similar amp draw is connected?
And that the machine ran fine on the 15A circuit? (See my edit below)
If the latter is true, I would swap in a different 20A just to eliminate the breakers from the equation.

Edit: I just re-read your original post and it seems it was tripping the 15A breaker on startup. So that would indicate the breakers are not at fault.

So that basically leaves short circuit, ground fault and arc fault as possibilities.
Are you able to check if there’s any current going to ground when it trips?
 
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Overload fault on the 15A surge protector, first guess, eliminate it before further testing.
 
A standard circuit breaker should only trip on an overload. A short circuit is a BIG overload.
Ground fault and arc fault are special breakers that you are not using.
Since you tried 2 different circuits, and since other things plugged in do not cause a trip, it is unlikely the house wiring or circuit breakers are at fault,.

OK just thinking out loud here.
Since it is a variable speed DC motor, most likely it is a variable voltage regulator that is powering the motor. Many regulators have large filter capacitors that need to be charged each time the power is turned on. I have seen these cause a problem if they are being charged to fast. It sounds like the requirement that the speed be set to zero is a way of leaving all available power to charge the capacitors and not also have the starting surge of the motor thrown at the power input. I am leaning toward an issue with the power board, but I have no way to walk you thru doing any testing of it to be sure. Can you post some pics of both sides of the speed control board, maybe by looking at it I can get a few things you can check with limited tools available.
 
I have a PM1030V manufactured in Jan 2018. The shop is on a single 20A circuit, with a GFI, everything on it, lights, lots of lights, machines, stereo, DRO. First I don't need to touch the speed pot to start. Second, I turn it on and off a lot. Third, I do occasionally trip the breaker on startup. It does not matter what the speed setting is. I put it at a overload caused by too much stuff and an in rush on startup. Fourth, the GFI has never tripped, thanks be to &^%, as it is in a terrible spot. Just one dude's experience.
 
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