PM-833TV power switch...

borges1 said:
Measured 127v between those two adjacent terminals. I did not measure either of those terminals to G.... then i mangled a resistor so i cant check until i fix that. I know you can get 120v on 220 single leg to G, which isn't code or smart, But i cannot imagine that one of those terminals in the middle of the circuit board is a G, thus my (yes) assumption that it was coming from an integral transformer. I will test once i fix the disaster i created.
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good luck fixing it, i know it can be frustrating, on a side note i cannot image that they put a transformer into the controls that will be any where near large enough to handle the loads you are talking about (specifically the power feed) but that is an assumption lol.
 
Yeah, i was sort of back of mind realizing the loads would add up to too much. If it is in fact usable 120 It probably could run my small 12v transformer/lights. But a bigger solution seems appropriate. The lockout switch i used has a third leg unused for a 3 conductor 220 i assume. I may just use separate 220 and 120 wall plugs into that one switch to control everything at one point, but get both voltages. Im just trying to streamline it all so there are way less cords/hoses/wires/ropes everywhere.
 
Tipton1965 said:
The PM-833's do not have a power switch. If it's plugged into the wall the VFD is on and the cooling fan is active. Some say this is a major oversight and I have to agree. I've been using the breaker to turn mine on/off but it's somewhat hillbillyish. So looking at my photo is there an online source that sells a similar switch that has the proper rating for my machine? Thanks!

View attachment 364460
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I would bet you can contact Mike at PM tech support and he could sell you the correct switch for that.

61NR12c1JwL._AC_SX679_.jpg

Something similar to this, which is what my PM-940 came with...
 
borges1 said:
Measured 127v between those two adjacent terminals. I did not measure either of those terminals to G.... then i mangled a resistor so i cant check until i fix that. I know you can get 120v on 220 single leg to G, which isn't code or smart, But i cannot imagine that one of those terminals in the middle of the circuit board is a G, thus my (yes) assumption that it was coming from an integral transformer. I will test once i fix the disaster i created.
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I left a post with a proper switch for shutting off power rated for 220V 20A if you are interested.
 
Thats the same switch i used essentially. It should just come with a switch installed. Safety and constantly running electronics/fan is super annoying
 
borges1 said:
Thats the same switch i used essentially. It should just come with a switch installed. Safety and constantly running electronics/fan is super annoying
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Agreed, my Chinese machine came with that switch.
 
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