PM-1660TL

Erik , once you get used to throwing those chips , you'll soon find out what burning skin smells like . :big grin: Don't ever forget about safety glasses and wear a baseball cap also . If you ever get a chip hang up behind those glasses , you'll wish you were on a scooter with a wasp in your helmet ! :fireman:
 
I felt like slowing things down so I switched to a HSS turning tool at 250 RPM, .007” per rev feed. The surface finish is just OK.

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The diameter at each point:

(1) 1.8068”
(2) 1.8059”
(3) 1.8052”
(4) 1.8045”
(5) 1.8041”
(6) 1.8032”

This is .0036” over 15.625”, or .00023” per inch of taper (“2.3 tenths per inch”).

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Not surprisingly, the lathe is a workhorse. Absolutely zero issues. I was taking cuts in the mild steel up to .075” and it just ate it up. Changing gears was effortless.

Sometimes (e.g. turning) my chips weren’t breaking.

The lathe is more quiet than I could have anticipated.
That lathe can handle anything you throw at it.
Nice paper clip cup. Maybe a brass one next? Although the brass will cost you $100
 
Cold rolled is great for turning a nasty finish. That finish is going to contribute to your variance when measuring up that big round. I would not judge yourself or your equipment too harshly here. I bet you'll see better numbers on your mic if you repeated this with a smoother finishing material.
 
The lathe was pretty level, but I painstakingly dialed it in as much as I am able to do so with a 6” machinist’s level.

I took off the compound & found some “cosmoline” under there that I had overlooked. I very carefully set the compound to 29.5 degrees (it was at 30). I squared up the QCTP & centered the tool.

I used a CNC ground HSS facing tool bit at 380 RPM with .007” feed, making cuts of .005” down to .00015”. There were about 3 passes at about .0005”.

My final pass was a .0001” dry cut at 620 RPM & the slowest feed on the machine: .002” per rev.

This finish is okay. I am going to take it to the bench and measure the taper.

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The dial indicator reads an increase (in radius!) of .002” over 16.25”, or .00012” per inch.

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As others have pointed out, having your lathe level doesn't really matter. Having no twist in the bed, that is what you are shooting for. If no twist, then tailstock alignment is the culprit regarding taper.
There are lathes on ships. They are never level. Well, not entirely true because maybe somewhere in between waves it might be level.
 
There is quite a learning curve to it all, in particular with carbide and the inserts. I am not sure what your are trying to determine machining between centers with HSS, the finish is pretty horrendous which suggests the grind is not correct and also the nose radius it to sharp for the feed. The issue of the taper, just indicates your tailstock position is not set correctly. As far as carbide and SFM, yes there is a sweet spot as to SFM, but there are many other important factors that effect finish. I will assume you are running TNMG inserts or negative rake, these take more Hp and a more substantial DOC and feed to remove the metal, neutral rake tooling or inserts with a tilted up edge with chip breaker typically used for finishing will give a cleaner cut at lower SFM. Still a lot depends on the edge geometry, coating, chip breaker, etc. Most of the insert boxes give you a range of feed and SFM typically designed for maximum material removal over the shortest time with good insert life. This is based on optimum tool geometry and system rigidity, but on SFM I am often in the 50-75% of rating for that material. Also the SFM and feed is very dependent on the materials, and some it like CRS tends to be a bit challenging to get a decent finish. If you are getting a lot of chatter, then your RPM is probably too high, so slow it down and play with the feed and DOC. The ideal swarf are C-shaped curls that break into pieces, but you may also get longer strands of swarf in particular with tougher metals like the 4000 series. I have attached a partial file from TMX which gives a lot of information as to general insert characteristics, feeds and speeds.

I would take a sample of 2 or 3" round material and just use the chuck with maybe 5-6" of stick out. Take a pass at say 0.004 vs. 0.008 IPR start at 400 RPM, 600, 800 RPM with say a 0.050" DOC. Start to find what gives you a better finish and the desired chips. Steel chips should becoming off straw color and turning blue. There are different types of inserts for different finishes and materials, some will cover a range. Often, in particular the TNMG which are considered obsolete by many mainstream shops, old stock is sold for pennies on the dollar. I can tell you that what works on steel will not work well on aluminum and softer materials, stainless and exotic materials requiring sharper cutting edges that are durable which much lower SFM and higher feed. Do not expect one insert to do it all under all conditions. Look at the attached document, review the basic coating, shapes, nimencalutre and cutting paramters in the materials listed. I usually run lower SFM and adjust the feed and DOC.
 

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