PM-1660TL

Here it is with the garage door open:

image.jpg
 
PM was kind enough to install the taper attachment for me. It looks like they got stuck with having to remove a lot of the “cosmoline” in order to do so.

Work gave me the day off today, so after the dump run I am going to remove the rest of the “cosmoline” and get into the goodies.

I am going to start my adventures with the 4J chuck.
 
The rigging crew brought the lathe this morning. Below are some pictures. I haven’t really gotten into it yet because there was a lot of packaging, and I am doing a dump run.

My nosy neighbor rained on my parade by standing in his yard videotaping the whole delivery. This has nothing to do with him, and I wish that he would mind his own beeswax. I have no idea what he thinks he can do with a video of his neighbor getting a machine delivered.

View attachment 340391View attachment 340392View attachment 340393View attachment 340394View attachment 340396View attachment 340397View attachment 340398
Congratulations!
 
Very nice Erik.

The garage door appears to be insulated but there are no seals around it, so the noise goes right out. Properly sealing the door would go a long way to reduce the noise the neighbor is complaining about. Not long ago I had a new garage door installed and it really isolates the noise and heat. It vastly improved the conditions in the garage.
 
I just went through the entire manual, and I can see that there is a lot to do to get ready.

I’m going to make an action plan. Presently, I have misplaced the instruction manual for the taper attachment.
 
I don’t know what this is, and I don’t remember seeing it in the manual. It is attached to the leadscrew and prevents the carriage from moving toward the tailstock. I do not believe that it is part of the taper attachment.

If had to guess, I would say that it is a stop for the clutch mechanism that would prevent the power feed from crashing the carriage in to the tailstock.

image.jpg
 
I just went through the catalog again specifically looking for the mystery part above. I did not see it, but I did find this (see pictures). It is an alternative to the micrometer stop that I have on the headstock end.

FA4A8D89-8FDC-4A17-9A2B-1BA8373FC92F.png
44228961-EE56-4708-A178-8CDB209575FD.png
 
Now that's a lathe! Hot damn, Erik!

That neighbor is lucky he doesn't live next door to me. He'd be walking funny and sleeping face down for awhile, and that's after the doctors strap him to the bed and remove the camera from up his ass with crane and a pair of ice tongs. Nothing brings out that war vet rage in me like someone thinking they can threaten my peaceful pursuit of my own goddamned ambitions. I even scare the cops, too, making the whole scene a little confusing. You shouldn't follow suit, that's just me saying that type of nosiness is over the line, lest your neighbor need to be corrected.

Noise control shouldn't be much of a thing with a lathe. Insulation in the walls goes a long way to adding sound damping mass. I got over 20 dB of attenuation by installing 6" of fiberglass in my shop. It looks like your door is insulated too. They use either glass fiber or rockwool in those doors, rockwool (green color) being the better sound insulator. If you're really worried about it, you can face the inside of the garage door panels with 1" styrofoam panels, which will help more with high frequency noise than it will with low freqs. That's kind of a tacky solution for the door, since you already have a good one.

Another noise control option is to play great music (Slayer, Cannibal Corpse, Sepultura, whatever) at just under the legal limit while working in your garage. Suddenly the low whummmm of a lathe might not be such a big deal. And when you do see your neighbor, snarl at him. Make him tuck tail.
 
Back
Top