PM-1660TL

Today I picked up two Aloris threading bars and some A6 threading inserts. I got the smallest threading bar (can fit in a 1/2” hole) and the third smallest bar (can fit in a 1” hole). I will mount these in a CXA #1 tool holder.

Here is the smallest threading bar:

and the insert:

No photo here, but here is the “third smallest” threading bar:

and the insert:

Aloris is great to deal with. They always have specials; you can just call them up with technical questions. They are very friendly & professional.
 
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Any idea what you intend to tackle for a first project?
 
Any idea what you intend to tackle for a first project?
I have to make an urn.

After that, I am going to make fancy cups. They will have a stainless steel insert, base and top (for safe drinking). The outside will be bushings (or rings) of various materials (copper, stainless, brass) to make for a beautiful drinking cup.

I plan to attach the bushings to each other with hidden socket head screw caps. It will be interesting to see how they wear with dishwasher cycles.

There will be some welding work on the stainless.

I hope to sell these online one day.

I also plan to make large boxes that look like a Miller welder. The lathe will be used for the handles (that look like knobs) and any other round parts.

Finally, I also plan to make cups or pencil holders that have a small hidden compartment in the bottom.
 
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You will find the lathe to be very quiet due to the mass and the motor is enclosed in the cast iron base. I would be surprised if you could hear it outside with the garage door closed. I would recommend about 12" between the garage door and the back of the lathe, maybe a bit more. You will most likely have a LED machine light that might extend slightly back on an articulated arm, and you may want to mount some racks to put your most common holders and chuck keys so they are readily available.
 
I hope to sell these online one day.
Before you try to sell anything, make sure you think about what that means from a homeowner's insurance point of view.

If (god forbid) your garage/house burns down, chances are your shop and equipment won't be covered if you're selling any of your wares, even if it's just a few one-offs here and there.
 
Along those lines:

You wouldn't be the first (and you certainly won't be the last) trying to make a bit of dough in a hobby shop.

But we'd all do well to understand the risks associated with that type of thing.

My homeowner's insurance policy, for example, has a cap of $1500 for "business property" located at my house, which "includes personal property that is frequently used in or for business or for business purposes."

The term "frequently" is, of course, not defined, but in the definition for "business," my policy says "...It does not matter whether it is continuous or regular or is a secondary or supplemental source of income... Profit and profit motive are irrelevant..."

I, for one, don't sell anything that I make in my home shop. I don't want to be out tens of thousands of dollars in the event of a loss because I'm trying to hock a few $10 trinkets.

Most insurers will provide a rider for "business property" coverage, but it ain't free, of course.

Anyway, all I'm trying to say is: be careful and do your research.
 
Definitely talk with your insurance agent. Even if you’re not doing a business you want that new (financed) machine covered.
 
I also wonder how much empty space I should leave between the back of the lathe and the inside of the garage door. My neighbor Pat is such a crybaby that I wouldn’t be surprised if I had to add soundproofing and a decibel meter.
Here is an easy answer if you don't already have an insulated garage door. We cut metal with a cold saw and can barely hear it outside (way less than some hobby woodworker's table saw running anyway. Very neighborhood friendly).

We insulated for heat (this is Phoenix after all). Side benefit is excellent sound insulation.

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Took a day but we used a commercial insulating board and cut with a jigsaw. We cut some skinny parts to jam inside the brackets, wider for the panel sections. Filled up the voids as much as possible.

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This is the stuff! R6 in a 1.5" panel. And really good sound insulation. Way better (at least twice the insulating power) of the lame kits that don't fit anyway. The kits are made for easy installation, very bendy, are really expensive. Much better to use this stuff (but really hard on the fingers if you cut it to fill up the voids in the door - cramming it over the lip of the door panel).
 
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