PM-1440GT, Taking the plunge, final answer?

Three phase is readily obtained from a static or rotary phase converter, I have this one

www.northamericaphaseconverters.com

SPC-3 Static 3 Phase Converter - 330V | NAPCco

Run motors at two-thirds power with the heavy-duty SPC-3 Static 3 Phase Converter. This 330V converter offers reliable performance for any industry.
www.northamericaphaseconverters.com www.northamericaphaseconverters.com

on the back of my lathe and it does the job fine. If I want a VFD later I'll do the mods but my machine has a long way to go before then. Definitely order the three phase machine over a single phase one since you will have to replace the motor if you want to change over later.

I can't speak directly to PM machines or accessories other than to say folks around here speak highly of them and willingness to sponsor/participate in our forum is a big plus in my book.

If I were doing it I would get the DRO installed and worry about other stuff later unless there was a special deal to be had. A keyed drill chuck will work the same as keyless for most operations but getting the 4 jaw with the machine makes sense. If you want to start working right away just order a phase converter and you should be able to hook it up and go.

John
 
If you are going with 3 phase, then I would go with an RPC or a VFD, either method is not that difficult, you will get full Hp and should have less issues with surface finish. The VFD gives you controlled acceleration, braking and variable speed on the fly. Cost wise the VFD is less expensive unless you build your own RPC. The 1440GT basic VFD install is fairly straight forward on how to adapt a new 1440GT control system to activate the WJ200 VFD controls.

DRO is a never ending discussion, my take is it decreases mistakes and makes you more efficient unless you have spent many years just using the dials. Also on many lathes the dials may end up with some odd repeating interval per revolution, which makes counting turns a PTA. There are lots of choices on DRO's, resolution wise both glass and magnetic are comparable as to accuracy. Magnetic scales are smaller, easier to install and less prone to contamination issues. Price wise they have come down significantly. You can buy DRO magnetic packages from the UK, you need to specify the lengths and also 1 micron for the cross slide. Install is fairly straight forward on the lathe and a good learning project. Also some of the less expense packages are worth looking at, just a matter of budget and preference.
www.machine-dro.co.uk

Easson ES-12C LCD digital readout package including 3 linear magnetic encoders

3 Axis Easson ES-12C LCD graphic digital readout package with three magnetic encoders. The encoders offer a very compact profile size and can be cut to length to custom fit the machine being installed. The package is suitable for mills up to Bridgeport 42" sized machines or 30" between centre...
www.machine-dro.co.uk www.machine-dro.co.uk
 
mksj, with your help, I will VFD from start! I'll get studying once it's ordered...

Thank you for the DRO link. That looks like some good kit.

All is appreciated.
 
No expert here, so take with the usual grain of salt. I've had my PM1440HD for a bit over 4 years. Chinese made and had some relatively minor issues. I only use the Joe Pie upside down and inside out threading method, simple, works great. I've used the micrometer carriage stop a few times but mostly just use the DRO and hand feed the last little bit. I sometimes use a magnetic back dial indicatorI have the original keyed chuck that came with the machine and a PM keyless chuck that I use all the time. If I'm using a large bit I tighten it just a bit more with the spanner. Never had a problem not doing that, just a precaution. The factory wedge style tool post has worked fine. I've got PM & Shars tool holders, work fine. Did replace the set screws in several of the Shars. PM 8" four jaw works fine. 6" PM 3 jaw scroll has less error than a higher dollar 8" I bought. Carriage lock, I made one similar to what others have done not often needed. Got the taper attachment PM installed. Have worked on it to try and improve it. OK now. PM had replaced the Chinese motor with a polish one before shipping.

The quick change gear box Leaked slowly. Took the front off, the gasket was just barely caught at one point. Bought some silicone liquid gasket at the auto store. Getting all the gears and operators back in registration was not easy. It still leaks very slowly. Like someone here said the micro safety switch on the end of the machine was off just enough that it would work, most of the time. Took me a while to track that one down. Easy fix, just adjust the switch location. At first the controls on the QCGB were grabby but now work smoothly. The Easson DRO, installed by PM, works well. When i got the machine I opened the main gear box and checked for sand, dirt etc. It was very clean. Tail stock was properly aligned. A steel spring pin had been used in place of the brass one that is shown on the parts diagram, I fixed that. There are no vibration issues. I'm running on 208 V three phase. This machine has a one piece cast Iron base, Total weight is about 2700#s+-. I do a mostly repair work. The price has gone up substantially and the included accessories has gone down since I bought. All dealings I've had with PM have been good.
 
oregontripper said:
mksj, with your help, I will VFD from start! I'll get studying once it's ordered...

Thank you for the DRO link. That looks like some good kit.

All is appreciated.
Click to expand...
@oregontripper
Please keep us informed with lots of pics once you get going. I would be especially interested in exactly how you do the VFD. Maybe I'll finally take that plunge.
Thanks, Bill
 
My $0.02 on Lathe Chucks. Whatever brand/quality you decide on I always recommend getting chucks with 2-piece jaws so you can use soft jaws. I regularly use soft jaws on both 3 & 4 jaw chucks. For 3-jaw chucks I prefer adjustable chucks that can be dialed in to near zero runout.

On drill chucks you will eventually have a multiple of sizes and quality. I use my precision keyless for fine work and crap imports for pre-drilling holes for boring or reaming. Keyed chucks hold tighter than keyless. For large holes I use 3MT tang drills I buy as needed.

Om my 1440-GT I went from single phase to three phase. The lathe ran great with the single phase motor and would serve most well. I wanted the extra options available with a VFD plus I believe the soft start with a VFD is easier on the gears.

Upgrading from a 1ph or factory 3ph the difference is cost of the motor, motor sheave and making a motor mount. The only 3hp 3ph motor I could find that would fit is the Marathon E470. It is a beast of a motor and I would venture to say more powerful than the factory 3hp 3ph which is the same frame size as the 2hp single phase motor.

There are a couple of members on this forum that changed the factory 3ph to the Marathon 3ph due to issues with the factory 3ph/VFD combo. I would recommend looking those up.
 
Moving this direction after a slight detour....


The PM lathe chucks aren't going to be beat for anything near the money. I'll get the PEP package 3-jaw and the independent 4-Jaw.


Three phase, albeit with it's VFD install challenges will be real nice. Speed dial on the fly?, soft start for sure. Still a couple days to change my mind.


PM wedge QCTP for the win.
 
oregontripper said:
Moving this direction after a slight detour....


The PM lathe chucks aren't going to be beat for anything near the money. I'll get the PEP package 3-jaw and the independent 4-Jaw.


Three phase, albeit with it's VFD install challenges will be real nice. Speed dial on the fly?, soft start for sure. Still a couple days to change my mind.


PM wedge QCTP for the win.
Click to expand...
Wait.
Didn't you get that other one from eBay?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top