PM-1440GT, Taking the plunge, final answer?

7milesup said:
^^^That is exactly what I was talking about. I might have to change out the DRO head on my mill for one of those. looks so easy to read.
Click to expand...
I have that same DRO on my mill and I can attest to the readability and ease of programming.
 
I question the need for an "Ultra precision drill chuck" on any lathe. With a spot drill to start a hole, any drill will drill on center, for a while at least, but without boring a hole, you don't know if it's concentric or not. Even with a perfect drill chuck drills will wander. I'm happy using old (20th century) Jacobs chucks.

Edit: Correct typo
 
Maybe a keyless "Ultra precision drill chuck" won't have this problem but my just "precision drill chuck" has a tendency on a heavy cut to self-tighten, and it's a pain to undo. Have to go dig around for that spanner. I'm happy with a key.
 
Hi guys. Much appreciate the input. Without order and on the fly.

I have cussed 1/2 of the hand drill keyless chucks I have used.... I like precision. Have to look into it. I'll be drilling out from an existing hole, not too hard. I just got my mill wired up tonight and made a few holes. I bought a fairly accurate keyed chuck for it and I think it's great. I'll be running an indicator on things, see how it spins.

VFD is going to take some careful preparation. Looks very doable, although I will be needing help making sure I am doing it right. I really want this.

Better DRO screen sure sounds like a good thing. They're offering a third DRO, a magnetic option now too. I think it'd be cool to have a third display on the same screen too. I'll have time to decide. Order of the XYZ isn't going to mess with me, but, I feel for those that have it in their head one way. :grin:

Regarding tool posts. I am specifically wondering about the QCTP offered at $180, not the standard one. I'll want more holders so that will be a factor. Will decide.

Hundred bucks for a stop? I don't know. Reverse threading has been sugested by many for the projects at hand...

$10000 for a new machine... Thing is, I have searched high and low (here comes the part I sound like a QMT commercial), what else is not Chinese, has a 2-2.5" spindle bore and likewise most critically a short spindle to my liking as well as a gearbox that isn't dumb? Had a machine seller measure a used machine for me today, 25" spindle, deal breaker by 10". I am new to lathes (no kidding), however, I do know the desired criteria for the technique intended to perform. This, I will not argue, it's been done and said by others. I am going to once again carefully consider the 1340GT. Just like many things, just one doesn't seem to be enough!
 
macardoso said:
Here is my LCD one. Bright and easy to read. Best of all, the display update is very fast, maybe 20-30Hz.

The ONLY gripe I have had with it is that the 1um scales have a resolution of 0.00004" (roughly half tenth), so the display automatically shows you 5 decimal places even once it is in diameter mode. a small piece of electrical tape on top of the vinyl cover solves that issue. The 2 axis scales come XY or XZ, but since I got the 3 axis unit, it reads XY or XYZ. Not a biggie and not an issue if you only want the 2 axis unit.

View attachment 351196
Click to expand...

Consider mounting that display up higher it looks like its right in the line of fire.
 
I’m not happy with the QCTP on the 1236T. I started a thread about the issue. The dovetails have .003 taper.


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I bought the 3-phase 1440-GT PEP three years ago. I would do it again. Here is a bit more input FWIW:
  1. I thought about the VFD, but decided to wait and see if I really needed it. I really didn't and still don't. How about waiting to decide?
  2. I bought PM's wedge-style QCTP for the $180. It works as well as any of the import models that I have on my other lathes, which is fine for me as a hobbyist. I have purchased a number of the import BX holders for about $18 each, which all work fine.
  3. I bought the Easson ES12-B DRO from PM and installed it myself. It's an easy installation, and the unit works fine. However I have since bought a similar $200 unit from Ali Express for another lathe and it works just as well. I would save the $$, if I were to decide today.
  4. I bought the PM mechanical carriage stop and use it a lot, especially for boring. It works fine. But I should have just built my own rather than spending extra for the PM unit.
  5. The carriage lock location poses a problem if you install the DRO scale on the back of the carriage. But mksj's design is a perfect solution. I show it on my lathe below.
  6. I bought the PM 4-jaw, and it works great, as does the 3-jaw. Both are high quality Taiwanese models, IMO. But as has been mentioned, both are still pretty tight.
  7. I bought the "high precision" PM keyless chuck. It works fine and is more convenient than my keyed one. Did I really need it? No
HTH. I have had great experience with the 1440-GT. Just a couple of minor problems so far:
  1. About 6 moths ago the gear that engages the worm on the power feed shaft fell off, so all power feeding stopped. I took the apron assembly apart and discovered that the locking ring for that gear was not installed at the factory (post#12). Simple fix, but reflective of a QC problem.
  2. When I tried to start the lathe for the first time - no go. Finally I called Matt and found that the inter-lock on the gearbox door was not making contact. Numerous other PM customers have apparently had that same problem.
  3. The apron leaks oil - not a lot, but enough to be annoying. One of our Forum members found a fix, which I haven't yet done.
  4. There is a weakness in the cross slide where the compound attaches, which has been discussed here. I haven't done anything about it yet, but Matt has agreed to help.
In summary. I hope you make the Plunge. IMO you won't be disappointed.

Here is a partial view of the "mksj-style"cross slide lock, also the PM QCTP and holders
Pillow Block Shaft Bearings Pulley.jpg
 
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@oregontripper I'll just answer the questions you asked without reference to the other answers, so my apologies for any duplication.

1: 3 phase - Ordering the 3 phase unit makes great sense if you have 3ph already in your shop. If you don't it will become an obstacle to your quickly using and enjoying your purchase. You 'can' jury rig' a lathe for 3ph using a VFD, but it wont work the way it was intended nor will it be easy to use. The 'best' way to hook up a VFD to a lathe is to completely rewire the control box. It takes time and electrical skills but is very rewarding when complete.

2: Toolposts - this is a religious and super hot topic... I have and use regularly 4-way, American Rocker. Aloris wedge, and offshore Piston and wedge clones. I've used Davidson and Multifix from time to time also. Each has a different pattern of use, but each has advantages and disadvantages. If you are experienced in a particular style, get that style. If you are just starting out, there's a long discussion that can go with this topic that should take an entire thread.

3: PEP package - Since you are buying it only once, get the best chucks you can afford. That's where you will easily see quality/crap. A 4 jaw chuck can be your economy one if you have to save money. It is way more expensive and more noticable than a toolpost or any other lathe item....

4: drill chuck - I'm going to get flamed for this, but here goes: Consider a name brand keyed chuck. You can leave the key in the chuck 100% of the time... It holds better and releases better than any keyless chuck, and doesn't suffer from the newbie problem of seating the drill all the way down before tightening it. This can reduce the hold on the drill bit, and can damage the chuck as it self-tightens. I've use both kinds for over 40 years, and the keyed isn't noticeably slower, and cheaper to get good accuracy. I love the old Jacobs superchuck if you can stand .004 runout, or their ultra precision chuck, which is around .0005 or .001, I can't remember. I also have Rohm chucks which are quite good.

5: DRO - A DRO is a nice to have on a lathe, but so far, none of my lathes have one. (nor have I needed it) (!!)

6. Mic Stop - Get the micrometer stop. When you've used your lathe for 10 years, you can learn to depend on it for improving your Z accuracy; and a DRO only covers part of that territory. Some guys never use them, but I use mine quite regularly. You set it to get a shoulder where you need it, and use the hand feed at the very end of the cut to go to the same shoulder, repeatably. Saves a lot of time, and is the only way to do this repeatably, short of an electronic lead screw.

7. live center - yes.

8. cs lock - a problem on several lathes I've used. you get used to it.
 
bill70j said:
I bought the 3-phase 1440-GT PEP three years ago. I would do it again. Here is a bit more input FWIW:
  1. I thought about the VFD, but decided to wait and see if I really needed it. I really didn't and still don't. How about waiting to decide?
  2. I bought PM's wedge-style QCTP for the $180. It works as well as any of the import models that I have on my other lathes, which is fine for me as a hobbyist. I have purchased a number of the import BX holders for about $18 each, which all work fine.
  3. I bought the Easson ES12-B DRO from PM and installed it myself. It's an easy installation, and the unit works fine. However I have since bought a similar $200 unit from Ali Express for another lathe and it works just as well. I would save the $$, if I were to decide today.
  4. I bought the PM mechanical carriage stop and use it a lot, especially for boring. It works fine. But I should have just built my own rather than spending extra for the PM unit.
  5. The carriage lock location poses a problem if you install the DRO scale on the back of the carriage. But mksj's design is a perfect solution. I show it on my lathe below.
  6. I bought the PM 4-jaw, and it works great, as does the 3-jaw. Both are high quality Taiwanese models, IMO. But as has been mentioned, both are still pretty tight.
  7. I bought the "high precision" PM keyless chuck. It works fine and is more convenient than my keyed one. Did I really need it? No
HTH. I have had great experience with the 1440-GT. Just a couple of minor problems so far:
  1. About 6 moths ago the gear that engages the worm on the power feed shaft fell off, so all power feeding stopped. I took the apron assembly apart and discovered that the locking ring for that gear was not installed at the factory (post#12). Simple fix, but reflective of a QC problem.
  2. When I tried to start the lathe for the first time - no go. Finally I called Matt and found that the inter-lock on the gearbox door was not making contact. Numerous other PM customers have apparently had that same problem.
  3. The apron leaks oil - not a lot, but enough to be annoying. One of our Forum members found a fix, which I haven't yet done.
  4. There is a weakness in the cross slide where the compound attaches, which has been discussed here. I haven't done anything about it yet, but Matt has agreed to help.
In summary. I hope you make the Plunge. IMO you won't be disappointed.

Here is a partial view of the "mksj-style"cross slide lock, also the PM QCTP and holders
View attachment 351359
Click to expand...
Great stuff.
 
Thanks for the additional information guys. It's very helpful to me.

3-phase is not available. Overnight I have actually begun to rethink this.

Some of those pics on the compound t-nuts are pretty uninspiring to say the least.

Cross slide lock. Matt offered to have a modification done. I'll just do it myself if needed. I like the one shown above.

DRO, hmmmm. I just about had myself convinced to go magnetic. Definitely will self-install. As a side note, watching DROpros videos is great for falling asleep. Not a slight, they're great, just the material. LOL

I'm leaning towards a keyed chuck.

Really appreciate the input!
 
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