PM-1130V owners tell me about the lathe,

I do not believe it is lash in the worm or lathe gearbox. I have applied drag to each and it makes no change. Under cutting load it is the same. I have not ran across a time during a normal work session where this has been an issue. 75 RPM with a feed of .001 is where you can see it. 90 RPM and .001 gives steady rotation. I should remove the worm box and see if I can measure the rotating torque. I should have done that before I started and now after use so I could see if the gearbox loosens up. As I said in normal everyday use I have had no issues with feed or the threading I have done. The finest thread I have cut was 26TPI at 150 RPM with no issues.
 
In your opinion, do you think it would cut 40 TPI? I use this threading pistol comps and barrels.
 
If you go the route that most have gone, you won't have an additional gearbox. My servo directly drives the existing lathe gearbox on the 1130v. And the 1130v has three gearing selections available. With those you can:
  1. Select normal or reverse direction
  2. Select normal (1x), or fast(2x), or slow output(1/2x). To maximize the effective torque of the servo, mine is always set to 1/2. I haven't done a bunch of threading, but torque seems adequate. Keep in mind that if your turn the spindle by hand....which is real slow....the ELS will drive the carriage gearing. That's way less than 60 RPM.....perhaps 10 RPM is the fastest I could spin it.
  3. Select the threading screw or the square bar feed
Given the number of people who have done the conversion with success w/o adding an extra gearbox, I'd suggest starting there. It will cost less and should work fine.

When I did my 1130v conversion, I initially though that there was insufficient room to put the servo between the motor and the body of the lathe. It is tight and it's probably correct to say it is very, if not too tight. The easy solution to the tight squeeze is to just move the motor over a tiny bit. And that just takes a few washers on two studs that the motor is mounted to (I used qty=4 1.5mm thick washers on each of the studs to gain ~1/4").

You should definitely read this thread: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...s-electronic-leadscrew-on-a-pm-machine.95057/
 
I have read and did read as others have done. And I very much appreciate the help offered by all! The issue that is trying to be fixed is not a big deal at this point because as I have said I am planning to move the servo to the same place that everyone else has, on my lathe it will take more than 1.5mm to get room I had already looked at that location and when it required moving the lathe and releveling it to be able to access the motor and figure out why mine was different than what others have, I decided to try the worm gearbox. In hindsight I should have just buckled down and moved the lathe. Again I thank everyone for the help and considerate comments.
 
I have read and did read as others have done. And I very much appreciate the help offered by all! The issue that is trying to be fixed is not a big deal at this point because as I have said I am planning to move the servo to the same place that everyone else has, on my lathe it will take more than 1.5mm to get room I had already looked at that location and when it required moving the lathe and releveling it to be able to access the motor and figure out why mine was different than what others have, I decided to try the worm gearbox. In hindsight I should have just buckled down and moved the lathe. Again I thank everyone for the help and considerate comments.
The four washers I put on each stud were 1.5mm each. So I moved the motor away by ~6mm. I also think more may be possible. You might need to resize the belt between the motor and the spindle at some point.

Once I realize the motor would pivot away, thing got much easier. Big hands are still a liability, but it was worth it to not have to lift the lathe.
 
The four washers I put on each stud were 1.5mm each. So I moved the motor away by ~6mm. I also think more may be possible. You might need to resize the belt between the motor and the spindle at some point.

Once I realize the motor would pivot away, thing got much easier. Big hands are still a liability, but it was worth it to not have to lift the lathe.

I will probably do it once I move the lathe out from the wall for better access. When I received the lathe the drive belt was so tight I could not move it between ranges even with the motor moved all the way up. I went to the next longer belts and reconfigured the tensioner pulley to run on the v side of the belt. Switching now is a piece of cake! You can see what I did in the pic I posted above. I have messed with the motor bolts and they certainly require small hands to work with. I do have the pulleys ready to go already. Only issue right now is I'm swamped with work I have to get done first.
 
Last edited:
In your opinion, do you think it would cut 40 TPI? I use this threading pistol comps and barrels.

It will cut up to 80tpi with no issues. Only issue is .001 feed at 75 RPM 90-100 RPM it doesn't act up. I tried 80TPI at 75RPM just to see if it would work while I was initially pondering the unsteady 001 feed
 
Back
Top