I like it a lot. The size is good for what I do. It fit my budget. A good clean up, adjust session and it has performed well. Swapping the change gears is a bit of a pain but am working on finishing the Clough42 ELS. I have it on the lathe now and am working out the final details. At this point, I have done some test cuts and played with threading and that in itself convinced me this lathe was right for me. I did buy it with the expectation that I would do this. Is it a 12x36 or larger no, but it isn't a mini lathe either. I did buy the stand and it's not the most rigid thing. planning on modifying it with a heavy top of steel and bracing next.
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PM-1130V owners tell me about the lathe,
- Thread starter tweinke
- Start date
I have an 8x12 lathe with Clough42 els and couldn't be happier with it. I am also considering the 1130v as my next lathe and was hoping you may have an update. Curious which motor you went with for the ELS and how it's performing.
I have an 1130-v with the Clough42 ELS and am quite happy with the setup.
I'm using the isV57T(S) integrated servo motor. Servo works well. I've got one of the alternate els firmware versions installed and it will thread to a shoulder. This feature stops the feed at a defined spot which makes threading much less scary. And then it moves back to the starting location for the next pass. Much better for all threads- but especially for metric! No more need for a threading dial.
I'm using the isV57T(S) integrated servo motor. Servo works well. I've got one of the alternate els firmware versions installed and it will thread to a shoulder. This feature stops the feed at a defined spot which makes threading much less scary. And then it moves back to the starting location for the next pass. Much better for all threads- but especially for metric! No more need for a threading dial.
Same here, the ELS was a very first project I did for my 1130, works fine for me. The only thing about 1130 that I don't like is its speed ranges, the low range is 75 to 500 rpm and the high range is 300 to 2000. I'd rather have the same speeds range as 1022, 50 to 1000. Maybe I'll make a custom pulley to address this.
Never heard of an alternate firmware for the Clough42 els. Would love to learn more about it.
See this discussion and pull request: https://github.com/clough42/electronic-leadscrew/pull/232
Beat me to it. 
This branch of code has been unchanged for a couple of years and seems pretty stable.
If you try it, make sure you have a printout of the cut to shoulder instructions at hand. It's not too complicated, but things do move on their own....so it's good to be sure what will happen. And the prompts are a bit cryptic on the small display.
Half nuts stay engaged the entire time you are cutting a thread.
You can start by cutting an "air thread" an inch or two away from the metal to metal contact to verify the settings. Then, once you're confident that it will stop in the right place and retract to the right place, you can move the cross-slide (and compound, if using it) in to do the actual cutting.
The ELS will stop moving the carriage at the end of each cut - at exactly the same place each time. It stops very quickly and far more repeatably than I ever could.
After the cut, when the carriage stops moving, you can take as long as you want to stop the spindle. Once you've stopped the spindle, you get a prompt to retract the cross slide. When ready, you hit a key ("Set" or "+") on the keypad and the carriage feeds back to the start position (on its own...with the spindle stopped).
Once back to the starting carriage position, you need to wind the cross slide back in to the cutting position and (if using it, adjust the compound). When you have the correct X axis position, you start the spindle and the ELS does the next cut.
Pretty neat.
This branch of code has been unchanged for a couple of years and seems pretty stable.
If you try it, make sure you have a printout of the cut to shoulder instructions at hand. It's not too complicated, but things do move on their own....so it's good to be sure what will happen. And the prompts are a bit cryptic on the small display.
Half nuts stay engaged the entire time you are cutting a thread.
You can start by cutting an "air thread" an inch or two away from the metal to metal contact to verify the settings. Then, once you're confident that it will stop in the right place and retract to the right place, you can move the cross-slide (and compound, if using it) in to do the actual cutting.
The ELS will stop moving the carriage at the end of each cut - at exactly the same place each time. It stops very quickly and far more repeatably than I ever could.
After the cut, when the carriage stops moving, you can take as long as you want to stop the spindle. Once you've stopped the spindle, you get a prompt to retract the cross slide. When ready, you hit a key ("Set" or "+") on the keypad and the carriage feeds back to the start position (on its own...with the spindle stopped).
Once back to the starting carriage position, you need to wind the cross slide back in to the cutting position and (if using it, adjust the compound). When you have the correct X axis position, you start the spindle and the ELS does the next cut.
Pretty neat.
I used the same servo as Clough42. I have been satisfied with the ELS. I used a 5:1 worm gearbox and do have a bit of an issue at the lowest spindle speeds with uneven speed of the lead and feed rod. I am pretty sure the drag of the worm box is robbing enough power to cause the servo to have to catch up, I believe the servo is running at about 20-25rpm or less. I have been thinking of belt drive at 6:1 with the servo between the motor and lathe bed as others have done here. I used the worm box to keep all the parts under the cover and I didn't think the servo could be fit between the motor and bed. In use I have had no issues with servo power with feeds and speeds that are appropriate for a machine of this size.
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2023
- Messages
- 728
could the "servo catching up" actually be lash in the gearbox?