Piston Rings Question(2)

I am not the expert mentioned. But what manufacturer is the bike in question? Is the bore capable of being honed out, or is it a grenade? If you can answer these questions take that info to piston builders who can manufacture suitable replacements from suitable material. Ask Hastings about the rings for those things. Different piston in each cylinder? I would sincerely love to hear the backstory on that.
Please keep us posted as this progresses.
Much of the back story is in the "Pistons problemo!" thread, where there is a picture. Douglas motorcycles are 1920s thru 1940s era. The 1930s post depression times were not kind to the company. They did have a military supply contract for 25,000 of these 350cc engines used in stationary form for wartime needs. Their Douglas "Dragonfly" was their last try at innovative bikes. They were comfy, with special suspension,fairings and features, but were under-powered. Try searching Douglas bikes on YouTube.

Now, there are clubs in UK where enthusiasts meet. They do very beautiful restorations, and run social meet rallies. I was asked by the folk at a Heritage Centre hangar at my (sailplane) club to help get the old engine back to working in the little airplane it came from.
 
Those pistons, especially the LHS one look to be more like 1960s than 1930/40s. You say horizontal engines, that will be Aermacchi or Motobi. When I first saw your pistons and before I read your post my reaction was "those look like 250 Aermacchi pistons". What is the piston diameter, that will say a lot? Here is a pic of a 1973 350 Aermacchi piston, unfortunately the camera angle has hidden the crown mostly. The 350s had a small swish band which yours do not. I will take a photo of a 250 piston and measure the rings and return with an update.
Hi Tony - thanks for the reply, and the picture.
You are very likey correct in thinking those two beat up old pistons are probably more modern than 1940s, if only because the oiling ring is no longer at the bottom of the skirt. See the pictures of the strip-down pistons in the "Pistons problemo" thread.

The original was 60.8mm (ie. 2.394" or 2+25/64"). The stroke was 60mm. The compression ration only 6 to 1. Despite the 350cc, they were low powered. Later engines used 8 to 1 ratio, and got up to around 28bhp. Most bikes used two Amal carburetters, on each cylinder.

Yes - I guess some Douglas owners, desperate for rare parts, might well put anything they can find or contrive with the right bore, and uses a 5/8" wrist pin. No way would the pistons you see have gone into the same engine. It would have shaken the bones out! As I understand it, the pistons have to be exactly the same shapes & rings, and weigh the same. Moreover, that weight had better be the correct weight to match the counterweights on the crankshaft. All these beat up pistons might contribute is their basic shape casting with the dome crown, and being +0.030"m might clean up (down??) with a 0.005" cut, with taper and skirt ovality preserved. Also, rings depth fixed. Also, new rings as per the original

I have little to lose in attempting some possibly extreme measures here. One approach might be to TIG weld up the ring slots with 4032 alloy and then re-create the originals. That would be 3 rings slots. Top is two standard compression rings. Next is a stepped ring. Then, third is down on the skirt oil control ring.

Another, possibly bizarre and desperate idea is to rework the originals (like the one in the picture), by using conventional electro-less nickel strike as precursor to a layer of (say) copper, to build up the thickness by most of the 0.010", followed by a final layer of some suitable metal to run in a iron-nickel alloy bore. Yes - I do understand I am going where maybe I should not, and that I don't know enough, and that there are zillions of ways to mess up!

pistons17-L with rings2.jpg
 
Another option might be to use electro-less nickel strike on the originals, as precursor to a layer of copper under a final surface of some metal suitable to be in a nickel-iron alloy bore. The piston surfaces are not supposed to contact the bore anyway, being held off by rings and oil film, but I suppose they always do at some point, because they wear.

Another option would be to widen the grooves and get some thicker rings. What is the bore diameter and pin size. I have often found modern pistons that fit directly or after minor modifications.
As you hint at, there are many modern coatings that could be used to build up the grooves.
One thing, the rings should not be so deep as to hold the piston off the bore. That would result in disaster. Rings need a gap behind them for combustion pressure to force them onto the bore for sealing.

Sorry for my previous irrelevant posts, I had not seen your piston problem post then.
 
Re: Compression ratio. The manual I have shows the domed pistons in the cutaway illustration, and definitely states 6 to 1 compression ratio, as suited the available petrol during wartime. Later engines increased it to 8 to 1. It is a simple engine with no frills. It relies on non-detergent sticky oil.
 
Another option would be to widen the grooves and get some thicker rings. What is the bore diameter and pin size. I have often found modern pistons that fit directly or after minor modifications.
As you hint at, there are many modern coatings that could be used to build up the grooves.
One thing, the rings should not be so deep as to hold the piston off the bore. That would result in disaster. Rings need a gap behind them for combustion pressure to force them onto the bore for sealing.

Sorry for my previous irrelevant posts, I had not seen your piston problem post then.
Thanks Tony. You give me hope!
Bore = 60.8mm
Stroke = 60mm
Wrist pin = 5/8"
Compression Ratio 6.1 to 1
Power for the stationary engine about 4hp (guess).
It seems everyone is unabashed about freely mixing metric and imperial units! That pin is 5/8". Also, one gets a re-bore specified in thousands of an inch, like +0.020", on a bore measured in mm.

They were used for searchlights generators, pumps etc. but have identical innards to the motorcycles, which simply had a crankcase suited to a bike frame. When you see one has used gauge blocks to measure ring gaps, you already know one has reached a sad state!
The picture is of a piston that I took out of the engine before I got it running. It looks exactly like the ones in the manual illustration.

Piston(LEFT) measures.png
 
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Most automotive pistons are not machined as a true cylinder, but are narrower at the top (where they heat up and expand more) and widest at the bottom skirts (to prevent rocking in the bore).
The skirts are also widest at the edges parallel to the connecting rod pin, and narrower on the tangential sides.
Given this, its probably not a good to re-machine at home, as you would need pretty specialized equipment to duplicate the original geometry.
 
What about Line2Line Coating? They can build up to 0.020”.
line2linecoatings.com
 
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