Pipe Welding on Steel

[erikmannie]

Erik,

If you made a solid plug, really just a disc with an OD that is a slip fit into the ID of the pipe, would that allow you to grip the pipes from the OD instead without as much movement?

Obviously you'd need a different plug for each pipe diameter.
I wonder if the pipe would be too oval to make this practical.....

-brino

Gripping the 8” and 10” on the outside of the pipe has the jaws of my chuck extending out too far. This is not a problem with sizes smaller than that.

Although now that I think about it, I could use the other set of jaws that came with the 3J for that. Those are still new in the box; are those called outside jaws?

I like to use as large of pipe as possible because you get more arc time that way.

 

[erikmannie]

Keep at it, it will get easier. The porosity is from to long of an arc. It's easier to control with 3/32'' electrode. Most of the big slag inclusions are at stop and starts I would imagine. It will get better. It only took me a couple flatbed semi loads of rod to get decent at it.

Keep posting the pictures.

Sometimes I long arc on a 7018 restrike because I have a hard time with the restart. The long arcing is between where I struck the rod & heading over to where I want to start the bead. Would I solve this by just keeping a short arc as I travel over to where I want to start working?

I don’t have much of a problem with 7018 restarts once the weldment is warmed up.

I suppose it anybody with any sense would PLAN a bead that would allow the use of a whole rod, or, if not, take a second to prep the tip of the partially used rod.

 

[b4autodark]

Sometimes I long arc on a 7018 restrike because I have a hard time with the restart. The long arcing is between where I struck the rod & heading over to where I want to start the bead. Would I solve this by just keeping a short arc as I travel over to where I want to start working?

Never!!! strike an arc and travel to where you left off. Always strike slightly ahead of where you want to start and move back into the puddle. Striking outside of the weld zone is an automatic fail on a certification test, it's called being "looked out" or failing on appearance alone. You usually won't be allowed to even put the next pass in. This is another reason to use 3/32'' 7018 electrodes, you will almost always use them up before you are getting "out of position" to maintain correct rod angle and you won't have trouble restarting a partially used electrode, you will be taking a new one that is easier to start. Keep at it!

 

[erikmannie]

@b4autodark

It is always my intention to strike in the area where I am about to work, but, alas, I am well into middle age with the eyesight to go along with it. I have 2.5X cheaters in most of my hoods.

I also need to PLAN to be braced and comfortable. So far the bracing has been terribly lacking to the point where there is often no bracing at all.

I will be at it for 8 hours straight today. I will post pictures.

One issue is that I have 10-20 lbs. of 3/32” 6010 and 3/32” 7010-A1 to go through before I buy 1/8”. I don’t have money for 1/8” 6010 now. I made the 1/8” lands, so I will have to work with a (3/32”?) gap so that I can use my 3/32” fast freeze rods. This is an unfortunate development; I’m really kicking myself for not buying 1/8” 6010: 3/32” is not a good match for a 1/8” land.

So if I am stuck with 3/32” for the time being, what size land should I put in the coupons for this? What size gap? Is a 37 1/2° bevel good?

 

[b4autodark]

I can relate, I just turned 70 and have +3.00 cheaters in my hood and wear +3.00 readers while welding as well. You are wise to know you have to PLAN the length of your travel, it makes a world of difference. Bracing and being comfortable also. You'll find a sweet spot.

 

[erikmannie]

I can relate, I just turned 70 and have +3.00 cheaters in my hood and wear +3.00 readers while welding as well. You are wise to know you have to PLAN the length of your travel, it makes a world of difference. Bracing and being comfortable also. You'll find a sweet spot.

I have one hood with no cheaters that I use when I want to wear 5X eyeglasses. Ya gotta get real close to the puddle; it’s awesome. For some unknown reason, I have only needed the 5X glasses for GTAW.

I can barely work with 2.5X cheaters. Next time I will try 3X.

 

[erikmannie]

This is my second attempt at a setup. My first setup was just outside the side door, and the electrode holder would barely reach far enough, so I gave up on that. The wind didn’t help, either.

As it is set up, I can only access half of the pipe seam. I am right handed, and I will put my left elbow on the pipe to brace myself. I don’t think bracing will be a problem with the welding table right there.

I moved my Aloris tool holders about 15’ away. My expensive chuck is about 10’ away. I covered my ways and carriage. I don’t know how far hot spatter from welding at 110A (1/8” 7018) can travel. I could get some white sheets to test spatter damage.

On second thought, I’m going to get a bunch of tarps and cover anything that I don’t want to get damaged by spatter.

 

[erikmannie]

I am doing hot passes on the 10” Sch 40 now. I did a small amount of machining prep on *some* high points of the 6010 root. I have 1/8” (all I have on hand) 7018 Excalibur at 110A. I was too lazy to use an angle grinder; I might have to do so, however.

I am having trouble at the tie-ins. The beginning of my new bead is usually too high, & certainly not blended. I am planning for a single cover pass. I am trying to get the crown of this hot pass just at the level of the pipe.

I like to weld as hot & fast as possible. I might turn up the current a little for the hot passes since there is little danger of undercut.





Edit: looking at that bead, I wouldn’t turn it up more than 1-2A.

 

[erikmannie]

Hopefully the middle & end of this hot pass is okay, but at the beginning (new rod!) I apparently long arced (porosity observed), & then the first inch looks a little on the cold side. 1/8” 7018, 110A, preheated pipe.

 

[erikmannie]

I have almost no practice with weaves. I usually do cursive e’s. I immediately noticed on the cap weld that cursive e’s are not an option. I have, however, watched a lot of 7018 weaving on YouTube.

I have it down to 107A now (1/8” 7018, preheated pipe). I wonder what the maximum allowable height above level is. My guess is 1/32”.

I see some undercut so I will have to drop it 1A and hang around the edges just a little longer.

I am still having huge problems blending at the tie-ins.