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Pictures of things made in Home Shop CNC
- Thread starter Cadillac STS
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2013
- Messages
- 149
Some fun with fusion360 and the Tormach today, making a couple of spinners for the nephew. Thought I could get the run time down to under 30 mins, but 40 mins seemed the best I could do pushing it with the tools I have.
They turned out pretty good, the finish is great right out of the vise.
They turned out pretty good, the finish is great right out of the vise.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 602
I made a new bottom plate for a treadmill motor and a little panel to attach electrical connectors to.
The plate for the treadmill motor is so that I can mount it on the mill and replace the little stock one. Its rated for a max of 2.25 HP and continuous duty at 1.3HP. Much more than the "4/5"HP standard motor that is actually only 350W.
Here is the plate next to the old one made from pressed sheet metal. I was surprised to find that the motor only weighs about 2lbs more than the stock motor and is almost the same size physically.
Here is the plate for the electrical connectors. The plan was originally to drill right into the wall of the enclosure into the electronics box behind it, but the connectors don't fit well, keep popping out, and are far from water proof. This one will attach to the wall and hold them firmly. I went with 10 holes to make room for 3 steppers, 3 encoders, and room to expand to a 4th axis, plug in the enclosure LEDs, and limit switches in the future. It was a little bit blurry and I didn't realize that until I uploaded it. Looked a lot better on my phone.
All of these were made on my X2 mill. In this picture, you can see the mill making the plate, as well as the connectors hanging out of the wall, hence the need for the plate.
The plate for the treadmill motor is so that I can mount it on the mill and replace the little stock one. Its rated for a max of 2.25 HP and continuous duty at 1.3HP. Much more than the "4/5"HP standard motor that is actually only 350W.
Here is the plate next to the old one made from pressed sheet metal. I was surprised to find that the motor only weighs about 2lbs more than the stock motor and is almost the same size physically.
Here is the plate for the electrical connectors. The plan was originally to drill right into the wall of the enclosure into the electronics box behind it, but the connectors don't fit well, keep popping out, and are far from water proof. This one will attach to the wall and hold them firmly. I went with 10 holes to make room for 3 steppers, 3 encoders, and room to expand to a 4th axis, plug in the enclosure LEDs, and limit switches in the future. It was a little bit blurry and I didn't realize that until I uploaded it. Looked a lot better on my phone.
All of these were made on my X2 mill. In this picture, you can see the mill making the plate, as well as the connectors hanging out of the wall, hence the need for the plate.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 602
I made a bishop for a chess set I am making my dad. The whole thing is done except bishops and knights. I need to make a 4th axis to do the knights. This was done by putting the stock in the collet and clamping an insert holder to the table.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 602
Thanks
There wasn't much to it. I set up a second CNC profile in linux cnc for a lathe with the head as the Z axis and the X as the cross slide. Then clamped the insert holder to 2 1-2-3 blocks stacked as a T and while in "mill mode", indicate on the tip of the insert so that it is positioned at 0,0 for the X and Y. Then switch over to the lathe profile and go to town.
Recently I replaced by cheap BoB with a PMDX-126 breakout board, a ethernet smoothstepper and a PMDX-107 spindle control board. Wanting to try out the new "toys" I decided to make a couple of air vents for the new electronics enclosure. The vents are probably not necessary but who knows what might start growing in an air-tight enclosure.
Here are the finished vents. For reference the bolt holes are 3-1/2" on center.
Here they are installed on the enclosure. I sandwiched some fiberglasss window screen material between the enclosure and vent to keep out swarf and insects.
BTW - I noticed an appreciable reduction in backlash with the new electronics and no more UC-100 connection faults.
Tom S.
Here are the finished vents. For reference the bolt holes are 3-1/2" on center.
Here they are installed on the enclosure. I sandwiched some fiberglasss window screen material between the enclosure and vent to keep out swarf and insects.
BTW - I noticed an appreciable reduction in backlash with the new electronics and no more UC-100 connection faults.
Tom S.