Parting Tool Question

Make sure that your carriage is locked and that the blade does not protrude from the tool holder block any more than necessary to make the cut. In your photo it is sticking out too far. You need all the rigidity you can get. Locking the gibs, as mentioned a couple times above. also helps with rigidity. Especially if it is stainless, but always anyway, get the tool cutting with a chip curling off and then keep on cutting, keep that chip coming. Do not be delicate about it. Stainless especially will work harden if you rub it instead of getting under it and cutting it. Work hardened stainless is just awful, avoid causing it.
 
I needed to tighten the gib screws on the compound slide I found one time it was moving and take any slack out of it by pulling back.
 
Ken S said:
View attachment 127703 View attachment 127704 I tried again with the tool slightly high of center and it did the same thing. I can't figure this out.
Click to expand...

Dont put it to heigh, that would require the lath to flex and alow it to cut, i think that can cause some issues.

My best improvment i've had with hss parting tool is to use some small dimond laps to sharpent it.

I've been doing much better since i've started making it rediculouse sharp.

Stuart
 
It looks like a tapered blade which can be tricky to align perfectly vertical. If the blade is not vertical with the same amount of relief on each side, it will push sideways. If the blade is held flat to the inside of a typical QCTP holder it will do exactly what you have shown. The blade should be shimmed out along the bottom of the blade to get it vertical.
 
Make sure your blade is sharp, squared to the chuck and the correct height, just slightly above center by about .010". Length should be the minimum to clear the piece or live center if needed. Make sure that you tool holder QCTP or otherwise is completely over the center on the compound. Some run the compound at 30*, then they also find the tool holder is hanging over/off the compound. You need to have plenty of support of the piece being cut. Either chuck your work stub short or use a center. Depending on the material and diameter, cutting speeds could be from 50-150 rpm. Having your gibs adjusted properly goes w/o saying ...
 
There is a posting where a fellow was having difficulty parting with an off shore QCTP.
I think it was a Shars and the OP mentioned that the tool holder required shims to hold the tool in the correct position.
 
My thanks to everyone for your responses. I've checked and tried everything you guys have suggested except the shim. It makes perfect sense that a tapered tool is going to lean out so i'll give that a shot tonight if I get a chance.
It is a tapered tool and I've been pushing it as tight as possible against the edge of the tool holder, not thinking about the taper.
It is a BXA import tool post I got from All Industrial with Hess tool holders. So far it's worked out great on everything but the cut off tool.

David, you mentioned a T top tool might be what works best in my holder. Should I look for a slot at the top edge for the tool T to fit in on the top side? If not, a T top tool would have to be shimmed also right?
Honestly, tool selection get's pretty confusing to me not knowing what I'm looking for sometimes. I can't thank you all enough for the knowledge you've imparted on this problem.
 
A couple problems that also arise are that there are materials that will work harden if the feed is too slow and then the tool may suddenly dig in.
 
Billh50 said:
A couple problems that also arise are that there are materials that will work harden if the feed is too slow and then the tool may suddenly dig in.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill, Bob mentioned that earlier and it's something I didn't know. I pretty much know nothing at this point but it's been fun learning.
 
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