Ordering A Dovetail Cutter

[Cobra]

If you are using something like 4140 for your holders, I don't believe you will get 6-8 holders cut with a single HSS cutter. I assume you will remove the bulk of the material in the centre of the dovetail with a regular end mill.
I tried using the HSS for enlarging AXA to BXA sized holders and only got one holder done before I had to change to carbide. That was obviously a lot less material removal than what you have planned.
Best of luck and post some pics of the holders.

 

[JR49]

I tried using the HSS for enlarging AXA to BXA sized holders and only got one holder done before I had to change to carbide. That was obviously a lot less material removal than what you have planned.

Good lord, if that is the case, then by the time I buy a $20 cutter, which you say will only last to make a few holders, the material (steel, grub screws, rod for height adjustment post), I'll be spending more to make them, then I would to buy the cheap CDCO holders! Gonna have to think some more about this. Thanks, JR49

 

[Cobra]

Your logic is spot on. The only reason I was machining the AXA holders was that I already had them.
By the time I had finished, it would have been cheaper to scrap the whole lot of AXAs and purchase new BXA.
The good thing was that I learned a lot about measuring and cutting the dovetails if I ever need to again in the future.

 

[mikey]

Given the low cost of Chinese tool holders nowadays you really have to consider if making one in a standard configuration is worth the time and cost. Most of these cheap holders work fine on most QCTP. I just bought 6 Shars #1 holders on ebay for less than $12.00 each and they fit fine, hold tools fine and I didn't have to cut a single one! However, there are times when you need a special holder, like a decent boring bar holder or a parting tool holder, that would be worth the time and cost to make.

Of course, a HSS cutter will not last long if it is used to enlarge an existing holder that is hardened by the maker, especially an Aloris or Dorian holder that is actually hardened properly. For a mild steel or aluminum holder that will only see hobby shop use a HSS cutter should work well and do a decent amount of work so I wouldn't give up on the idea just yet if you have a specialty holder in mind.

Just my $0.09 (2 cents, adjusted for inflation)

 

[Doubleeboy]

Given the low cost of Chinese tool holders nowadays you really have to consider if making one in a standard configuration is worth the time and cost. Most of these cheap holders work fine on most QCTP. I just bought 6 Shars #1 holders on ebay for less than $12.00 each and they fit fine, hold tools fine and I didn't have to cut a single one! However, there are times when you need a special holder, like a decent boring bar holder or a parting tool holder, that would be worth the time and cost to make.

Of course, a HSS cutter will not last long if it is used to enlarge an existing holder that is hardened by the maker, especially an Aloris or Dorian holder that is actually hardened properly. For a mild steel or aluminum holder that will only see hobby shop use a HSS cutter should work well and do a decent amount of work so I wouldn't give up on the idea just yet if you have a specialty holder in mind.


Mikey nailed it. I build lots of holders but they are special purpose, with CDCO selling them for next to nothing, the standard size ones are a waste to build yourself. I build them with small tool slots so I can use 1/4" and 3/8" tools in CXA holders and also hold really small form tools. For these I have given up on steel and use scrap 6061 or 7000 series aluminum. When using aluminum I machine them for a very tight fit figuring they will wear a bit with time. Some of mine are now 12 years old and have no noticeable wear.

You can make a flycutter type tool with a positive rake triangle insert , does not cut as nice as a 8 tooth cutter but sure is cheap.

michael

 

[Tony Wells]

You could opt to rough out the holders with some home-ground cutter to get most of the material out of the way, make an inserted cutter that isn't critical as far as the angle goes, or grind a fly cuter to do the roughout. Point being, use the dovetail cutter only for finishing. They will last longer, leave a better finish and be far more accurate if you "baby" them.
Another thing to note on them is that the tips are very sharp and fragile. They don't take much abuse. It pays to get good cutters, but only if you take care of them.

On some factory holders, there is a relief cut in the flat bottom of the dovetail recess. That should be cut before the dovetail. It is that much less for the cutter to drag or rub against.

 

[4GSR]

Along with what Tony said, spend the little extra money and get a Cobalt grade high speed steel cutter. It will keep it's sharpness longer and less likely to knock the sharp corners off. Use a good cutting oil on the cutter too. (Motor oil & WD-40 are not cutting oils) And don't do what I did one time on a dovetail cutter, knock the sharp corners off of the cutter. Had to go buy a new cutter. Since then, I've resharpen the tips with a nice flat so it's not so likely to get damaged again.