Ordered a 6 Jaw Lathe Chuck

My set true adapter is easy to make. Turn down the register on the back plate about .010" so it is loose on the chuck body. Mount, leave the socket head cap screws hand snug. Indicate the test bar, bump the OD of the chuck with a block of brass or aluminum. Go easy bumping. When you think you got it, tighten the cap screws, indicate again. Should be able to get it dead nuts. In the 15 years of running a 6" chuck set up like that, I've never knocked it out of true.
 
Well, well... Surprised again. Because the chuck came in packing grease, all the parts were tossed in the solvent tank then cleaned with 90% alcohol then, lightly lubed. It operated like a totally different piece of equipment. Very smooth. Next step was to fit the backplate to the spindle.

Two words of caution:

1) When working really close-in to a spinning chuck, watch your clothing, fingers... -all body parts.
2) NEVER insert a D-type backplate in a spindle without having the lug locking bolts installed. If you do, that lug can spin when you tighten it and it will not come off w/o taking drastic measures. See the pic...

Those little screws MUST be installed to prevent the lug from spinning.
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Right out of the box and to the credit of the manufacturer, the plate is too tight. If it were too loose, give it away to someone with a bigger spindle. The cams are tight and you can see in the image the tiny light-gap between the spindle and plate. Hopefully it renders here on this website. Anyhow, that's a no-go! It must sit perfectly flush when the cams are pulled tight.

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How to fix it: Easy!

In my case, based on experience, I estimate the tapered hole is about 2-4 thou too tight. Take a file or some kind of sharp scribe and scratch a radial line in the taper that is about 1-2 thou deep. If you're so inclined, put some dykem on there. Next, mount an existing shop chuck and grab the new plate from the bore.

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Next, take a stick and some rough sandpaper and open-up the tapered hole. Use your good senses to be safe and also use a little finesse to maintain the tapered angle. I was spinning about 300 RPM.

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After 3 tries of taking it off, re-installing the lugs (AND lug lock screws), I got it nailed pefectly. When I put a little love on those locking cams, the backplate sits flush and an indicator shows absolutely no runout that I can see. The factory that made this, did a good job. It's flat on both sides.

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Next, the body was bolted to the plate. Before tightening the screws, the body was indicated until it ran with no perceptible runout. In reality, that appeared to be within a total of 1/2 thou using a TDI.

Next, the proof shaft was mounted and then came the surprise. At the jaws, it was +/- 1 thou. At 18 inches, it was +/- 1 thou. Mind you, I did nothing at all to the jaws other than clean and lube them. I have a video of it but, the system is complaining about the file size. If there's a way I can upload it, I will. It's only 1 minute long.

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Finally, upon close inspection, this chuck can be converted to a set-tru in "no-brainer" fashion. I will do it some day soon on this chuck but before then, I'll post a PDF image of the modifications to make. It's all but trivial.

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So, here's how I would modify this chuck to make it a set-tru. I've done this same mod on other chucks for friends and years ago, did it for some folks here on this list.

See the picture. The blue parts represent your existing backplate and chuck body. There's a lip on the backplate that needs to be turned down in dia about 5-10 thou. Next, make a ring of that same diameter and affix it to the backplate. How you do that depends on your configuration. You will bolt it for sure (no welding) but, you must decide if the bolts are from inside to outside or, other way around. Once that is in place, drill tap 4 holes 90 degrees apart on your chuck body. Depending on size of chuck use 5/16 to 3/8 socket SET screws. Those screws must always be below the surface of the chuck body or, you will have a terribly dangerous situation that could tear your palm in half if you put your hand on the chuck.

When I do this new chuck, I'll show the precise dimensions. I only know by visual inspection this is very possible. I will probably need to put some slight clearance cuts in the collar to clear the 3 bevel gears that tighten the pinion plate. No problem at all, plenty of room in there for this.

Have at it.

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PS: I just ordered one of these chucks in 8" version. Only 40 bucks more than the 6". -That's a no-brainer.


Ray C.
 
Ray, I'm glad the chuck came great! Even if you had to fine tune a little.

The two back plates I've bought from these guys, CME, had an interested feature I was surprised anyone would use.
See the pictures.

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It has a keyway that was cut using a wire EDM.
Last picture is the rough thread start that I'll have to take a file after it to fix it up.

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Now Ken... how much fun would it be if we didn't have to mess and tinker with stuff before we used it? Half the fun of doing this, is getting the opportunity to screw it up in our own, special and unique way. :geek:

Anyhow, for all I know, Amazon sent me the good one because I do so much business with them. I'm hoping they give me the same consideration on the 8" I just ordered.

.... Right now, the chuck is good enough as-is but, I will do the set-tru mod. Before I do that, I will take a small file or stone to some of the burrs on the jaws. Aside from cleaning the grit and storage oil, I did not change anything other than opening-up the taper on the backplate.

Last, in a day or two, I'll do more testing with bigger shafts to see if the scroll is even. I suspect it will be fine.

Ray
 
Next, the proof shaft was mounted and then came the surprise. At the jaws, it was +/- 1 thou. At 18 inches, it was +/- 1 thou. Mind you, I did nothing at all to the jaws other than clean and lube them. I have a video of it but, the system is complaining about the file size. If there's a way I can upload it, I will. It's only 1 minute long.
Why is this? I have two old chucks that came with my lathe and they get really bad the further out you go.
I bought an NOS Rohm three jaw direct mount and there is very little difference closer towards the TS, or I should say significantly less then the old ones.
 
Why is this? I have two old chucks that came with my lathe and they get really bad the further out you go.
I bought an NOS Rohm three jaw direct mount and there is very little difference closer towards the TS, or I should say significantly less then the old ones.

There could be many problems. When diagnosing these issues, you start at the spindle and work your way forward.

1) Are the spindle bearings OK and have proper pre-tension?
2) Is the spindle in a flat plane parallel to the plane of the bed?
3) Is the spindle in a flat plane perpendicular to the bed?
4) Is the back of the backplate flat to a plane perpendicular to the axis of the spindle?
5) Is the front of the backplate in a plane also in a plane flat and perpendicular to the axis of the spindle?
6) Is the back of the chuck flat and properly seated to the back plate?
7) Are the jaws grabbing the piece and holding in a straight line along the axis of the spindle?

Most likely, #7 is your problem but, don't mess around and start adjusting or grinding your jaws until you verified 1 thru 6.
Chucks get old and clapped-out too. The jaws get worn in the front more than the back. The jaw slots gets worn etc...

As far as items 1-7, an experienced machine rebuilder would probably have many things to add. I'm not an experienced machine rebuilder -not by any means but, you won't go wrong by running down that checklist. Warning... It takes a lot of tools and good equipment to check a machine. Recommend you don't make hasty decisions or permanent modifications until you research the topic and have the basic tools for the task.

Ray
 
Just wanted to pass along a thought to folks in case they decide to get this chuck or one like it... The slots for the replaceable jaws have fairly sharp edges and burrs. When the chuck is spinning, these edges are a hazard. Take a look at that edge right at my fingertips.
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Took about 3 minutes per jaw to grind that off with a die grinder and follow-up with a hand file.
Much better now.

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In other news, this chuck is running very well and the set-tru modifications is not worthwhile to me. Everything re-seats within 1/2 to 1 thou and a 24" proof bar measured at 18" is typically 1.5 to 3 TIR. Old saying... If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

In other news, I have not checked the lathe for a while so, I did a "RDM" health-check. It was out a tiny bit. It took about 15 minutes to make an adjustment and as near as I can tell, using a proof rod, the bed is parallel to the spindle within 0.0007 over 18". I could probably try to tweak that but honestly, the TDI setup and other factored-in errors are probably on-par with the measured values, so I decided to take it and run to the bank with it.


Ray C.
 
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