Nogaflex Indicator Holders

Hi Will
I finally managed to remove the stem from my NF1022 with brute force on the spanners. Like yours mine has some sort of locking material on the stem and down onto the threads. The end of the arm has a 5mm female thread into which I will insert a stud to connect to the Indicol Mount in a manner similar to yours. If I dont replace the thread lock I can use my NF1022 in either mode but I guess that after changing back and forth a few times I will settle on only one arrangement.

This will have to wait as I will be making a final decision on a new lathe this week. Pretty certain it will be the Sieg Runmaster 13 x40.
Will start a new thread when it arrives
Ron
 
Being a fan of Noga holders I had to order an NF1022. I pondered (can you take penicillin for ponder?) how to adapt the NF1022 to my Indicol and decided to turn the last 1/2" of the stem of the Noga to .250". Doing so let's me use the Noga with the Indicol or in a collet in my Bridgeport. I used my handy dandy Harbor Freight mini propane torch to loosen the factory threadlocker on the Noga with no harm done to the finish.
 
I will be buying my first Noga very soon. For centering rotary tables though, I like Tom Griffins' idea of making a brass
piece that fit's in the tables center hole. 1 2 3 done.
 
I wrote to Noga and here is what they replied:
Hi Emilio,

I thank your e-mail dated yesterday.

Yes the stem is threaded into the ball and we use Loctite as well.

Maybe it will be possible the remove the stem by air heater instrument.

If not you may buy the arm and the top part separately: NF60003 and FA1500.

Best regards,

Avi

Noga

This is what I will do,.buy the arm in two pieces w/o Loctite.
 
For centering a rotary table by Tom griffin: (in under a minute!). The great Tom Griffin.

This is so cool.
 
I like Tom's method. Any hints on the best way to machine the taper? I made a test bar to fit the taper on my rotary table that I use to indicate on but I am not sure I did a great job with the taper. I guess I would like a better fit than I got with mine. It looks like Tom's does not try to match the taper so only needs to have a big enough diameter to stop in the hole at some point. An easier part to make.
 
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Ron Hubbard 1 year ago
Tom, can you show us how you determined you needed a 3 degree taper over 1 inch. Then show us how you cut that taper. Sorry, I'm just a beginner. Sure this sounds elemental. I don't have taper gauges and wouldn't know how to use them if I did. Thanks, Ron
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Toms Techniques 1 year ago
Hey Ron, The 3º taper was just a WAG. I needed just enough to center up in the hole without falling through. I cut the taper using the taper attachment on my lathe. Another way to turn it would be to offset the tailstock slightly and yet another way would be to turn it using the compound rest set at an angle. Taper turning on the lathe is one of the topics that I haven't got to yet for my videos, but they will be coming. It doesn't require any special tools to measure a taper like this. You just convert the angle to taper per inch and use a pair of outside mics and a ruler to measure the diameters a known distance apart. Tom
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EmilioG said:
you may buy the arm and the top part separately: NF60003 and FA1500.

This is what I will do,.buy the arm in two pieces w/o Loctite.
Click to expand...

Do you have a source to buy the Noga parts or will you buy directly from them if possible? I looked a while back & could not find a vendor that sold individual parts that was not extremely expensive. If you do have a source, please share.

As I mentioned in post 19, I just took the arm off an entire assy. It was cheaper that way for me as they are almost always on sale & stacked a discount code on top of it.

I was able to remove the stem on my NF1018 but as I mentioned before, that leaves you with a female thread as opposed to a male thread if removing the arm from a mag base. Easy to adapt though. But the reason I removed my stem was not for the Indicol marriage. I made a 1/2" stem for mine. I got tired of using an 8mm collet in the mill.

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EmilioG said:
I will be buying my first Noga very soon. For centering rotary tables though, I like Tom Griffins' idea of making a brass piece that fit's in the tables center hole. 1 2 3 done.
Click to expand...

Unless I'm missing something (I have not watched the video you posted) if you're going to use an indicator to center a rotary table, why do you need to make an adapter? I center mine using a Blake Co-Ax directly off the RT's taper. I am making an centering adapter but it's meant to be used so an indicator is not needed. I'll post that when I'm done with it.
 
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