New to me PM1030V

[Aaron_W]

I was focused on the collet chuck because the 3-jaw on my old mini lathe was quite horrible. The 3 jaw on the PM is quite good and I've been getting good use from it.

I do still want a collet chuck eventually and liked the ER style for their range of grip and ready availability. I would like to buy just one family of collets to use for both lathe chuck and collet blocks on the mill. I know there is not one "right" answer to any collet question but is it fair to say the ER40 would give good service in both applications?

My approach to things like this when I don't know what I don't know is to buy a reasonably priced entry level (Typically read: Shars) set to see how it goes. Any comment before I go that route?

If you just want one, ER32 seems to offer the most options, but ER40 seems to be catching up. ER40 collet blocks are starting to show up, but I've not yet seen an ER40 spindexer. 5C still holds the advantage for "other stuff", but with a spindle bore of less than 1-3/8" you lose the full benefit of 5C, since you can't use a collet closer and drawtube.

The chuck becomes the biggest cost for multiple ER sizes, you don't need to buy full sets of collets. ER32 is my workhorse collet choice but I've now got ER16, ER32, and ER50, but not the full range in each. My ER32 is complete 3/16"-3/4", but I only have ER50 from 7/8" to 1-1/4" to pick up where the ER32 leaves off (eventually I will probably bring it down to 3/4"). I have the full range of ER16 1/32 to 3/8" because I found a good deal on a full set, but since my smallest ER32 is 3/16" there is not a ton of overlap (ER32 can be had down to 1/16"). I also have some watchmakers collets for really small stuff.

The ER16 chuck is about 1/4 the size of my ER32 chuck, so can be handy when working on small things. The ER50 is easily 2x the size of the ER32 chuck, but since it only fits my bigger lathe the size isn't an issue (I think the diameter is bigger than the swing of the Sherline even if they offered the right thread, and it would take up almost all of the length on the Taig). I have it set where I can run ER16 or ER32 on the small lathes, the mills, rotary table and dividing head. I can use ER32 or ER50 on the 11" lathe, and ER16 or ER32 in its tailstock with an adaptor (but I haven't had the need so far).

I have some redundancy on the ER32 collets because I bought better quality collets specifically for tool holding in the common shank sizes.

 

[erikmannie]

I have the machine set up - managed to do a sideways pick with the crane and happy to have it done.

I have to say I'm finding the motor control scheme a bit odd. I'll talk thru it just to be sure my machine isn't having a problem as the PO replaced the control board under warranty.

Presuming E-Stop is deactivated, all other safeties are satisfied:

Turning the F-O-R dial to F or R does nothing by itself. Manual states this should light the tach.

The green ON button does nothing unless direction dial is set to F or R.

If dial set to F or R, Green ON button turns machine on. If speed pot is at min, motor spins 50RPM. If any other setting, motor doesn't run until pot turned to min. After that there is no way to stop the motor without killing the machine entirely including the backlight to the tach.

Turning the F/R dial to O kills the machine entirely. Pressing the red OFF button kills the machine entirely. I expected to be able to have the backlight on, motor at zero RPM.

Is this how your PM machines work?

I have a PM-1030V, and that is exactly how it works. You will get used to it very quickly.

I press the red (“power off”) button to stop the chuck. Then I turn down the pot so that when I want to start the chuck again I just have to press the green (“power on”) button.