New to me PM1030V

Aaron_W said:
It sounds like a good excuse to get one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic carts, they have a 500lb for $179 or 1000lbs for $279 and I'm sure they go on sale frequently (HF is always having a sale).

HF hydraulic table




You know what I have never seen that seems like it would be really handy for the Chinese lathes with flanged spindles? A threaded adaptor that fits onto the flange, 3/4"-16 would allow the use of the many Sherline and Taig accessories, and 1-1/2"-8 is very common on smaller vintage lathes, so there are a ton of accessories for this thread.

It probably wouldn't be that hard to make one, and you could use a locking pin if you were concerned with running the lathe in reverse. It would open up a lot of options, run the flange for the things you can find for it, run the appropriate thread where you can't.
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The Hydraulic lift table would work great, jus put the head stock end at the handle end.
I bought a similar table, larger to move my mill.
 
I called PM - they confirmed they do not make collet chucks and that the mount is called DIN 55027 or 55022.
I called Shars - they are familiar with the PM style and referred to it as 'European' and said nothing they have will bolt up.

Looking for tips? I'm frankly not good enough to make something myself at this juncture and would like the machine up and running with a collet chuck preferably ER40 asap.

Thanks
 
T Bredehoft said:
I purchased from one of the perveyors of machinery we see spoken of here (I forgot which one) an ER40 collelt mounted on a plate and from PM an adaptor for that lathe. The two together work well. Its the same adapter that comes on thier chucks supplied with the lathe.
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Would you be able to dig up the info on this purchase to help guide me?

Thanks
 
I have the machine set up - managed to do a sideways pick with the crane and happy to have it done.

I have to say I'm finding the motor control scheme a bit odd. I'll talk thru it just to be sure my machine isn't having a problem as the PO replaced the control board under warranty.

Presuming E-Stop is deactivated, all other safeties are satisfied:

Turning the F-O-R dial to F or R does nothing by itself. Manual states this should light the tach.

The green ON button does nothing unless direction dial is set to F or R.

If dial set to F or R, Green ON button turns machine on. If speed pot is at min, motor spins 50RPM. If any other setting, motor doesn't run until pot turned to min. After that there is no way to stop the motor without killing the machine entirely including the backlight to the tach.

Turning the F/R dial to O kills the machine entirely. Pressing the red OFF button kills the machine entirely. I expected to be able to have the backlight on, motor at zero RPM.

Is this how your PM machines work?
 
r-mm said:
I called PM - they confirmed they do not make collet chucks and that the mount is called DIN 55027 or 55022.
I called Shars - they are familiar with the PM style and referred to it as 'European' and said nothing they have will bolt up.

Looking for tips? I'm frankly not good enough to make something myself at this juncture and would like the machine up and running with a collet chuck preferably ER40 asap.

Thanks
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Your spindle mount is more common in Europe.

din.JPG

Emco used it and Rohm and Bison makes chucks with that DIN standard. You need to identify what your spindle mount size is, then go look for a back plate that will fit. I'm sure there is some Chinese maker that sells these, although the fit to the spindle taper has to be carefully evaluated once you get it. Note that the spindle taper is 7 degrees, 7 minutes, 30 seconds. This taper has to match the taper in the back plate because that determines how accurate the plate is. Then you need to sort out what the spacing on the bolt holes is and then you can search for a back plate. Once you find a source that is hopefully economical enough for you, buy several plates because you're very likely going to mount other chucks to your lathe.

I should think that PM would have plates to fit your lathe. You need to buy the back plate and fit the collet chuck to that plate.

Why do you need an ER chuck to get your lathe up and running? It should come with a 3 jaw that will hold stuff while you learn to run the lathe. A 4 jaw should come next. A collet chuck is commonly bought but not often needed in a hobby shop. The only time you really need a collet chuck is when grabbing a knurled or threaded or finely finished part that you cannot afford to damage when clamping it. For most of the things you will do in a hobby shop, a 3 jaw is the fastest one to use, grabs pretty good and, at least on a first operation, will be dead on accurate. For second operations, the 4 jaw is slower but is potentially the most accurate chuck available. Collet chucks are nice to have for the lathe but you don't really need them all that often.
 
Collet chucks are great for small work. Especially for repetitive small work, I like being able to use the internal stop.
A 3 and 4 jaw should be your first chucks.
 
Hello all

I do have the 3 and 4 jaw chucks the machine came with. I found collets very useful for the work I did with my previous mini lathe. Thanks for the information.
 
I was focused on the collet chuck because the 3-jaw on my old mini lathe was quite horrible. The 3 jaw on the PM is quite good and I've been getting good use from it.

I do still want a collet chuck eventually and liked the ER style for their range of grip and ready availability. I would like to buy just one family of collets to use for both lathe chuck and collet blocks on the mill. I know there is not one "right" answer to any collet question but is it fair to say the ER40 would give good service in both applications?

My approach to things like this when I don't know what I don't know is to buy a reasonably priced entry level (Typically read: Shars) set to see how it goes. Any comment before I go that route?
 
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