New to me: Craftsman 101.27440 lathe.

Yes, you very definitely do not want metal chips or dust getting into anything electrical. Either immediately or eventually, it will definitely let the magic smoke out.

A voltmeter is only useful for measuring or indicating the presence of voltage. The instrument used for measuring resistance and indicating continuity is called an ohmmeter. And an electrical instrument for measuring current is called an ammeter. And there are a bzillion types of each.

Whether or not less (resistance) is better or not "just depends". If you know, for example, that one of the run windings should have a resistance of 8 ohms, and you only measure 4, or measure essentially 0, that is very definitely NOT good. On the other hand, if you had say a 1/2 HP and a 1 HP motor and measured the DC resistance of one of the start windings in each, you would certainly expect to get a lower reading from the 1HP motor. But on the other hand, if you got a reading of 0 ohms in either motor, that is very definitely NOT good.
 
Okay guys,

I promise you some pictures of the motor before I paint it and put it back together. I was able to get the stator and windings as clean as I could with mineral spirits and a good scrubbing. May not look the best but that is as far as I am going to go with cleaning.

Now you can see what I have going on this motor.
1014170139.jpg1014170139a.jpg1014170141.jpg1014170141a.jpg
 
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And if you see double imagines of the pictures. I don't know why that happened?

But now you can see what the motor looks like. On the armature you can see that spring and weight I was talking about. And speaking of the armature, Glenn you said something about if is smooth and with no grooves left on it. That is is pretty much wasted, well you can clearly see that it is smooth.

So I guess at this point. The only thing to do is paint it and put it back together. See how well it works for now until I can get a new motor. I was really hoping that I could use this motor, just because of the uniqueness of it. But from what Glenn is saying about the armature having no grooves (and it is smooth) then it probably is wasted.
 
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wa5cab said:
Yes, you very definitely do not want metal chips or dust getting into anything electrical. Either immediately or eventually, it will definitely let the magic smoke out.

A voltmeter is only useful for measuring or indicating the presence of voltage. The instrument used for measuring resistance and indicating continuity is called an ohmmeter. And an electrical instrument for measuring current is called an ammeter. And there are a bzillion types of each.

Whether or not less (resistance) is better or not "just depends". If you know, for example, that one of the run windings should have a resistance of 8 ohms, and you only measure 4, or measure essentially 0, that is very definitely NOT good. On the other hand, if you had say a 1/2 HP and a 1 HP motor and measured the DC resistance of one of the start windings in each, you would certainly expect to get a lower reading from the 1HP motor. But on the other hand, if you got a reading of 0 ohms in either motor, that is very definitely NOT good.
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Yes Robert, that is what I meant to say. A volt ohm meter to measure the resistance of the motor. But I'll have to do that after I put it back together (something I should have done before I took it apart) to see if it worth all the trouble I put into it.
 
Well,

Not sure what happened to this thread with all the help I was getting. But tonight is the night that I put the motor back together. I was wondering if Mike or Glenn ever saw the pictures above with the armature and it being smooth. I'm not sure if it was ever smooth in the first place, because it doesn't look like it ever had grooves in it. Unless they are talking about the windings, that have grooves on the inside? Guess I'll never know until one of them decides to respond back to this thread. But if they are talking about the grooves in the windings, they are nice and clean and after a good cleaning they look like new.

Anyway, tomorrow I will send some pictures of the motor when it is assembled. Still need to get a sacrificial extension cord and wire it up to the motor to see if it will run like it used to.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
I think maybe that the new software version that was installed over the weekend may have decreased participation a bit. For one thing, we've discovered that anyone using any of the later versions of IE can start a thread but can't reply to it or any other thread. Same is apparently true about Conversations. Or they could all just be off doing something else.

Anyway, I'm not an electrician, either. I'm an electrical and electronics engineer. And I have no idea what these grooves are that were mentioned earlier. In any case, with single phase AC motors other than Universal (AC/DC), the things that you look for are general condition of the housing or main body of the motor, condition of the end bells, condition of the windings and the wire coming out of them, general condition of the armature, condition of the bearing journals on both ends of the armature, condition of the bearings, whether they are sleeve, ball or roller, and if so equipped, condition of the centrifugal switch.

The photographs aren't large or close-up enough for me to be able to say that everything appears OK. But I don't see anything obviously wrong. So run an electricial leakage test between the two or three stater windings and the housing. Best way to do this is with a Megohmmeter or Megger. But you aren't likely to have one of those. So use an ohmmeter on its highest scale. Connect one lead to the housing. In turn, connect the other lead to each of the wires coming out of the stater windings. The ammeter meter needle shouldn't move and stay moved.

If you are going to repaint the motor, do it now.

If that's all OK, reassemble the motor and if possible, test run it before putting it back on the lathe.
 
Hey Robert,

The motor is cleaned up and painted. I put it back together last night and now all I need is the sacrificial extension cord. Once I get that then I will put a switch on and give it a bench test before I go putting back on the lathe.

Oh yeah almost forgot to ask you. Now that I have the lathe stand welded up. And I know this is a personal preference type of thing. But what color should I paint the lathe stand? Right now I have just about everything painted dark grey gloss or smoke gray gloss. But I want to change it up a bit with the stand, so I'm thinking maybe dark blue gloss?
 
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Well, to paraphrase Henry Ford, people may paint their machines any color that they like, so long as it's gray. ;) Seriously, I've never lived with any equipment that wasn't either black, gray or green. So I don't know how that combination would "wear".
 
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Well, I have plenty of gray paint. So I might as well paint it gray like the rest of the lathe. When I rebuilt the Atlas horizontal mill. I ended up painting the stand with truck bed liner paint in black. Still not really sure if I like that or not yet. But I don't want to go that route with the lathe stand. And thought that maybe doing something different might be cool. And I agree with you about the machines they were either green or gray. In fact the walls of the machine shop that I worked in were green on the bottom and white about 4 feet up. And the manager of the shop would wear puke green pants with a white shirt. Back then most of us were in our 20's and would do all kinds of stupid stuff and the manager would blend in with the walls. Next thing you know someone is doing something they shouldn't and the manager would catch them in the act. Busted!!! LoL

Oh yeah, that spring thingy on the armature I was wondering about. Apparently it rides against the metal plate on the end piece and it has a taper on it. When the spring gets far enough up on the tapered metal plate, I guess it does something I'm not quite sure about yet?
 
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